Fuse box 2011 ford f150

My 2008 Ford Escape probably needs a new engine if I want it to stop pouring oil all over the place, so I'm beginning to look at used car options. I have a budget of around $5,000, give or take. The Escape has an estimated trade in value of only $675, FWIW.
A main need is climate controlled cargo space. I am in video production professionally, so I do need to haul gear fairly regularly. A pickup truck is not an option because much of my gear doesn't love the cold Ohio winters. My Escape had what I would consider the baseline minimum amount of cargo space when the seats are down. I'm also 6'4", and honestly I don't think I could be physically comfortable in anything smaller than the Escape, either. Also going to need to put two car seats in it from time to time. Opposite of all that, I don’t really want a monster SUV like a Suburban size vehicle that is going to guzzle gas. Just something in the middle.
I also want something that is fairly reliable. Apart from the leak, the V6 in my Escape has performed admirably. I would not feel comfortable dropping down lower than 6 cylinders, both for power and general reliability and longevity. I'm surprised my Ford has done so well (about to hit 200,000 miles), but I need something more bulletproof. I know my budget is low, so that means older high mileage vehicles. Whatever I buy needs to perform well past 200,000 miles.
What currently has my attention is the Volvo XC70. The size, reliability, engine options and all wheel drive that I'm seeing in my price range for a 2008-2011 high millable (170,000-200,000 miles) model seem to fit the bill. If anyone has any personal experience with this model, any advice would be helpful, especially if you could tell me how easy they are to work on. I am by no means a mechanic, but I did manage to replace the alternator on our 2013 Honda Odyssey on my own. It took a while, but I did it. I am somewhat comfortable doing this level of work, but I don't intend to be taking engines apart or anything like that. Repair costs with a Volvo have be worried, but I would make sure anything I buy has a clean bill of health, so hopefully major issues won't arise.
I'd love to hear any additional recommendations for vehicles that fit these requirements. Just by reliability reputation alone, I'm interested in Toyota and Honda SUVs, Volvo,. No mini vans, please. We already have one and I'd rather have more variety in usability in our driveway.

I have an unexplained issue that started years ago after I purchased the Samsung galaxy note 2, circa 2011. I started noticing that my new Bluetooth headset started to give me an earache that increased in pain each time I used it. I blamed the headset and switched to the handset for phone calls. Then, when I was holding it near (not up against) my ear, it started to hurt just the same as the Bluetooth earbud, even at the lowest volume setting. So, I switched ears and the same pain started to develop in my other ear. I tried speaker phone, and even this started to hurt my ears at the lowest volume setting. Not like a general discomfort, but outright stabbing pain if I’m exposed for a more than a few minutes. It has a cumulative effect that takes hours/days to dissipate. I went to the ent specialist doctor and found no issues with my ear - I had/have great hearing, actually.
I blamed the phone, so I purchased a new phone, the moto edge (I think that’s what it was called), same pain, then exchanged to Sony Xperia Z, all gave me same piercing pain in my inner ear area.
I could no longer listen to audio on these phones - no phone calls, no watching videos with audio on, and if I’m even in the same room as someone using phones like those I’ve described, the pain will come. It’s not a pain that is instantly recognizable but develops over the course of a minute or two before I can feel it in earnest, then it just builds from there. After a few minutes if I stop I’ll only have a migraine/earache feeling the remainder of that day, if longer, then it could persist into the following day.
Here is where it gets weirder. I purchased a 2015 ford fiesta - I was so excited to have a new car. The car stereo caused the exact same pain when the stereo was on! I was so desperate to listen to music I would even put an ear plug in my right ear (because it was worse/more sensitive than my left) and listen at the lowest volume. They even weirder part is that it would cause pain just from being turned on, even with the volume set to zero! This was truly perplexing.
Ever since these developments over the last 11-13 years I’ve been careful what speakers I’m around.
Still, to this day, I can’t use these phones previously described.
As of about two years ago I discovered my iPhone XS has been tolerable on low volume settings. If I turn the volume beyond 50% the pain was build up. I can also use Samsung Galaxy buds on <= 50% volume without triggering discomfort.
I suspect I have some kind of ultrasonic sensitivity that most people do not have, and whatever technologies that started being put in many small speakers 12-14 years ago triggers this pain.
Are there others in the medical community who have seen or heard of this before? Thank you!

Im selling my home. Person buying the house sent a home inspector. He started messing with the fuse box and the light went out in the back porch. I thought it was something simple like a flick of the switch again. No. Its still not work it. I let my realtor know, but she just tells me to check the fuse (I already did. As much as I knew anyway) shouldn’t the inspector be responsible for this? This happened 3 days ago.

hi all! thought i’d post some fragrances i’d like to sell here as i am paring down my collection of the things i’m not so fond of anymore yet again lol. everything is shipping included in the prices!
pics!
tom ford- lost cherry 1.7 oz/50 mL, 95% full, box included: $150
tom ford- bitter peach 1.7 oz/50 mL, 95% full + 75% full travel spray, box included: $165
jo malone- english pear and freesia 3.4 oz/100 mL, 95% full: $75
jean paul gaultier- la belle edp 3.4 oz/100 mL, 90-95% full: $75
ouai- north bondi & melrose place 1.7 oz/50 mL, NWOT: honestly i’ll throw these in for an extra $15 each if you buy any other frag here!! or $30 each
ok that’s it! have a great one everybody

I asked over at fordexplorer, but thought I would check here as well. I’ll preface by saying I’m not a mechanical novice and I’m definitely not afraid to remedy a problem on my own. I’m not a huge fan of our local Ford dealer, and after researching this topic, I felt confident I could fix this on my own. Now I’m stumped.
Last week, my wife's 2017 Explorer sunroof got stuck open unexpectedly while she was at lunch one day. I didn't realize that was a common issue on these Explorers because we've literally never had a problem with it at all and it gave no indication or symptoms of failure. She got about halfway home and tried the button again and it closed flawlessly. I started researching and realized this issue is more common than I realized (which was a relief because I was thinking the worst with a broken track or something along those lines). So I ordered a replacement motor (Motorcraft brand) from RockAuto and received it. Pulled everything apart to swap it out and realized I had gotten the wrong motor. Ordered the correct one and it arrived today so I went back to put everything back together this evening. Got the new motor installed and attempted the reprogram procedure for it- this is where I ran into problems. Doing the door open, ignition on, then off, then back on, pressing the tilt button and releasing then pressing and holding again. Both times when I press the button the glass moves backwards about 1/2" and stops. When I release and press and hold it, does the same thing. I've tried every combination I can think of, but it will only move back. Now, it's standing completely open and can't go back any further. If I let it sit with the ignition on for like 10 seconds and press the buttons, I can hear the motor click, but it won't do anything else. Luckily we have a garage so the car is covered but I can't find anywhere showing this as being a problem with the relearn procedure. I tried disconnecting and reconnecting the new motor and starting over, I tried disconnecting and reconnecting the battery on the car and starting the procedure over. Nothing works. So now the sunroof is wide open again, and I don't exactly know what to do now aside from tucking my tail and scheduling an appointment with my local dealer to see if they can resolve the issue which I'm afraid will result in them telling me this new motor is bad and needs to be replaced again or some nonsense. (Mind you, I called them to price a motor before I ordered one online and they told me that same Motorcraft glass motor was $485. It was $135 from RockAuto and it arrived in a Motorcraft labeled box with Motorcraft stickers on it.)
Any advice or help would be appreciated!
UPDATE: took the new motor out and swapped back in the old motor to see what would happen. When I initialize the learning procedure, it's wants to try and tilt the glass up even though it's in the fully open position. It's like it's binding up and wanting to tilt up and slide forward at the same time. I have no clue what I've done here. I don't know why it would only slide backwards when I tried to initialize the new motor and now it's like it's stuck and can't figure out what to do. What a pain in the ass. I've had countless vehicles with sunroofs and never had a single issue. I guess I was long overdue.

How much does it cost to get electrical cleaned? There is corrosion from leaking top that needs to be replaced. Hoping fuse box is OK. Symptoms are battery dies after a few days and fuel gauge is off.
Leak comes from top that needs to be replaced.

Tonight our power went out for a split second - but weirdly, not everything went off. The TV, a couple lights and a clock radio needed to be reset. The phone went off. But the TV and most other lights stayed on. Power company website said there was no outage in our area and we are receiving power in our location. I checked the box in the basement after it happened, but nothing seemed to be tripped.
There is one circuit in the house which has not been working for a few days, it handles outlets in a couple bathrooms. When that started happening I checked the fuse box, but again, nothing appeared to be tripped then either.
What is going on here? Is it something that requires an electrician? Is it dangerous?

https://forums.daybreakgames.com/dcuo/index.php?threads/cant-get-to-character-screen.328164/
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Just wanna say, when was the last Feat menu UI, spreadsheet, updated? Glad it is in the form that it currently is. Search box.... really? Too much to ask? for a 2011 released game that began in at least 2008.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-giOx3BbgF8 2009 [[email protected]](mailto:[email protected]). ....mmmph, Should have ended with inclusion of Darkseid (2016). Jack burst onto the scene also with his time capsules that year. https://forums.daybreakgames.com/dcuo/index.php?threads/jack-emmert-q-a.275241/ Jack is no longer a part of DBG, along with several others that had been there before Jack arrived. Jens, Chris, etc. It was made for the problematically unique SP3... https://www.cnet.com/home/smart-home/sony-ps3-is-hard-to-develop-for-on-purpose/
/wary. /[email protected] emotes. Meh. T rated game. Very old game. Instead of new powers or ability trees or different colors for powers.... allies. -.- Not including the OG mentors ASAP? ok. Different creative directors over years, Shirley.
It had become DPSUniverse by 2013 when role optional alerts was optional in settings. Good luck 4 healers that get matched up pug'n. :)
Last point: the Uninstall on PC DOES NOT WORK, and has not.... practically since launch in 2011.
EG7... /wary. /glare. It ain't Columbus Nova owned anymore.
Never considered this site as any game community, but since having issue with the official forum... and having begun using this site in recent years. oh! maybe a DCUO forum here. Shirley@[email protected]
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P5z4EnLrLi4 found this useful when i arrived at playing the game years after it released. the gmae is now offline/canceled.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tQrHB4JV998 This is useful for DCUO currently.

Experience the epitome of automotive transformation at WildWell Motor Sports. Our latest video showcases a mesmerizing display of customization for the Ford F150, featuring upgraded tires, stunning rims, enhanced suspension, and an impressive grille. Brace yourself for a visual spectacle as the revamped Ford F150 exudes sheer dominance and captivates the audience with its awe-inspiring presence. Get ready to witness the perfect blend of power and style, redefining the boundaries of automotive excellence.
https://reddit.com/link/13y0havideo/tyteqxj1li3b1/player

When I turn my vehicle off, it doesn't fully go through the turn off process and there are certain displays that aren't popping up when they should be, I know that doesn't make sense but I'll try my best to explain
This all started yesterday evening.
Okay so my key fob 100% works, my wife's key fob needs to be inserted because it needs a new battery. If we try to use the push to start without inserting my wife's fob then the little display on the dash will say something like "no key detected" or "please insert key", well at the moment, that message isn't popping up when it should be, like the display is just off, as well as the vehicle doesn't seem to be even searching for a key because my fob also doesn't trigger anything. Once we insert the key, the vehicle turns on without issue except for two things. There is no media, like the display on the vehicle is completely off and there is no audio output either, also, every time we turn the vehicle on, the clock resets to 1:00.
Once we turn the vehicle off and remove the key, everything shuts down like the vehicle is off except the seats don't auto move back like they should and the functions like lock/unlock
I hope it doesn't sound like I'm just complaining about my fobs not working because at this point I have replaced batteries in both and I'm still having the issue it really feels more like a car issue.
So I opened the fuse boxes and checked whatever fuses looked important but figured I'd come here to see if there are specific ones I should check, I also unhooked the battery to see if a nice reset would fix it, it did not. The battery is definitely new enough for me to not think it needs to be replaced already, so I'm hoping someone here can help me out.
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Just let me know if I need to provide any other info about the vehicle/.

When I turn my vehicle off, it doesn't fully go through the turn off process and there are certain displays that aren't popping up when they should be, I know that doesn't make sense but I'll try my best to explain
This all started yesterday evening.
Okay so my key fob 100% works, my wife's key fob needs to be inserted because it needs a new battery. If we try to use the push to start without inserting my wife's fob then the little display on the dash will say something like "no key detected" or "please insert key", well at the moment, that message isn't popping up when it should be, like the display is just off, as well as the vehicle doesn't seem to be even searching for a key because my fob also doesn't trigger anything. Once we insert the key, the vehicle turns on without issue except for two things. There is no media, like the display on the vehicle is completely off and there is no audio output either, also, every time we turn the vehicle on, the clock resets to 1:00.
Once we turn the vehicle off and remove the key, everything shuts down like the vehicle is off except the seats don't auto move back like they should and the functions like lock/unlock
I hope it doesn't sound like I'm just complaining about my fobs not working because at this point I have replaced batteries in both and I'm still having the issue it really feels more like a car issue.
So I opened the fuse boxes and checked whatever fuses looked important but figured I'd come here to see if there are specific ones I should check, I also unhooked the battery to see if a nice reset would fix it, it did not. The battery is definitely new enough for me to not think it needs to be replaced already, so I'm hoping someone here can help me out.
​
Just let me know if I need to provide any other info about the vehicle/.

When I turn my vehicle off, it doesn't fully go through the turn off process and there are certain displays that aren't popping up when they should be, I know that doesn't make sense but I'll try my best to explain
This all started yesterday evening.
Okay so my key fob 100% works, my wife's key fob needs to be inserted because it needs a new battery. If we try to use the push to start without inserting my wife's fob then the little display on the dash will say something like "no key detected" or "please insert key", well at the moment, that message isn't popping up when it should be, like the display is just off, as well as the vehicle doesn't seem to be even searching for a key because my fob also doesn't trigger anything. Once we insert the key, the vehicle turns on without issue except for two things. There is no media, like the display on the vehicle is completely off and there is no audio output either, also, every time we turn the vehicle on, the clock resets to 1:00.
Once we turn the vehicle off and remove the key, everything shuts down like the vehicle is off except the seats don't auto move back like they should and the functions like lock/unlock
I hope it doesn't sound like I'm just complaining about my fobs not working because at this point I have replaced batteries in both and I'm still having the issue it really feels more like a car issue.
So I opened the fuse boxes and checked whatever fuses looked important but figured I'd come here to see if there are specific ones I should check, I also unhooked the battery to see if a nice reset would fix it, it did not. The battery is definitely new enough for me to not think it needs to be replaced already, so I'm hoping someone here can help me out.
​
Just let me know if I need to provide any other info about the vehicle/.

On May 31, the Census office released some more tables, including of religion by age groups.
If you look at the three main protestant sects, you can see that adherence to those groups has dropped from 46% in the 65+ group to 24% in the 15-39 group. Likewise non-religious identity is only 8.26% for the 65+ group but 22.93% for 15-39 group.
https://www.nisra.gov.uk/publications/census-2021-main-statistics-religion-tables
Look at table MS-B30 - the age groups are off to the right side.
That's a pretty huge collapse in traditional protestant identity in NI.
It's obviously wrong to see a one-to-one relationship between protestant belief and unionism - no doubt there are protestants who are not unionists, and unionists who are not protestants.
Nonetheless, historically the correlation has been been high, for obvious reasons. It is likely a factor in the steady dribbling away of support for unionist parties. It's hard to see it as a plus for them, certainly.
And, to the extent that traditional support for unionism has been driven by religious concerns, presumably this indicates that specific driver is not as meaningful anymore.
You don't see this with the Catholic numbers in NI.
What's interesting is you do see this with Catholic numbers in the Republic of Ireland. I don't have exact equivalents, but looking at somewhat different measure tells a story that ends up in a similar place.
In 2011, 2016 and 2022, the number of people in RoI who identify as Catholic has gone from 84% to 79% to 69%. Which is just a stunning drop over a 11 year period. It strongly suggests that the youngest adult cohort in Ireland may be identifying as Catholic at under 50% (but that data does not yet seem to be available).
Ireland voted in the past 10 years for both equal marriage and abortion, so Catholics in RoI have veered strongly towards the cafeteria type already. In other words, a fair few of those who tick the "Catholic" box clearly do so as much for cultural as religious reasons.