2023.06.09 03:55 My77thaccount 2011 chevy silverado 1500 ac issues
2023.06.08 22:21 Solerien I'm considering buying a 2023 S60 Recharge Ultimate edition. I have some questions about PILOT ASSIST.
2023.06.08 21:47 cliffman1992 Honest Review (multi-car customer)
2023.06.08 04:46 silly_goose_guy How do New Bettas Act? (might be a sick fish)
![]() | (EDIT: NOT A SICK FISH JUST A DUMB OWNER) submitted by silly_goose_guy to bettafish [link] [comments] I got a new betta recently (my very first one) under some weird circumstances (outlined here). The problem is, I think he's acting strange? when I first got him in, he was much more active than I expected, looking at all the decor, checking out the floating plants (giant duckweed), looking at the filteheater, etc. but today (two days later, one water change) he's just been sitting at the bottom of the tank and only swims every few hours to come to the surface and breathe. I assumed it was high ammonia and did a 25% water change but he's still acting like this. Is this normal for a new (and pretty stressed) betta or should I look more into this? (water is at 79.3 F (used an actual thermometer, not the one on the side), was nitrogen cycling for 2 weeks beforehand, haven't tested yet because my mother insists he's just stressed) EDIT, STILL HAVENT TESTED BUT THE ISSUE IS RESOLVED ANYWAYS. (I'm still going to get a test kit tho) turns out im an IDIOT and the weird L shaped screw thing that came with my filter was important (it had no instructions and i couldn't find anything online) turns out its an air control valve and my air flow is too strong! my power went out for like ~15 minutes and Mr. Mercury was zippin around perfectly fine after a few minutes. I was pushing him around with a too strong filter. I feel real bad but at least now I know he's not somehow dying, my anxiety got the best of me on that one sorry guys https://preview.redd.it/m3dn0qkyip4b1.jpg?width=3060&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=646cafae338acf7a47c92728d7db81a22442c8e9 |
2023.06.08 03:15 lexushelicopterwatch Trading in and scaling up to two
2023.06.07 20:30 khoafraelich789 Used Car Guide: 1996-2010 Dodge Viper
![]() | 5 tips to find a first-class example of a secondhand Dodge Viper. submitted by khoafraelich789 to CarInformationNews [link] [comments] https://preview.redd.it/nspzptnvi63b1.png?width=1200&format=png&auto=webp&s=df37c3e53c833087654e9a0c1a946fdfc5727771 I’ve got a Dodge Viper problem. Despite their horrifying fuel consumption, restricted outward visibility, leg-singeing rocker panels, and an exhaust note like a hot-rod UPS truck, I’ve enjoyed driving two of these machines for the better part of 10 years and about 65,000 kilometres to date. My first Viper was a 2000 GTS Coupe. My childhood dream car, we spent five years and about 45,000 kilometres together driving around town, going on road trips, lapping various tracks, and attending car shows and the like. About four years ago I traded this unit in for a 2008 Dodge Viper SRT-10 Coupe. We’ve done about 20,000 kilometres together, partaking in a similar range of activities. I’ve had zero mechanical problems associated with the driveline in either of my cars, and little more than the odd electronic hiccup resulting from a weak battery or wonky sensor. I’ve owned a lot of cars, and my two Vipers have been among the most reliable — second only to my 1993 Nissan 240SX. The key success factor here is that I’ve had both units checked over fully by a qualified ‘Viper Tech’ in a dealer setting, on my dime, before purchase. In both cases, this pre-purchase checkup was worth the investment. For my first Viper, the inspection revealed thousands worth of upcoming repair- and replacement parts which helped me negotiate a much better deal; on my second car, it picked up a dead trunk-release button which the selling dealership fixed on their dime, and also confirmed that this car was in otherwise excellent shape. To be clear: the best thing you can do before buying a used Dodge Viper is to make arrangements to have it seen by a Viper-trained technician in a dealer setting. Still, after a decade of V-10 Mopar motoring, I’ve also come up with some additional tips to share with potential used Dodge Viper shoppers, especially those considering a vintage like mine — that is, the second- to fourth-generation cars. Following these tips can help you enjoy a more trouble-free driving experience and avert potential headaches or surprises with your new toy. Door hinges I’ve found the door hinges in both of my Vipers to be quite fussy, and I’m not alone. In my 2000 GTS, the doors seemed to sag with repeated use over time. The driver’s door hinge eventually needed to be readjusted multiple times to prevent the door from striking the body when closing. The out-of-alignment door hinge also caused damage to the weather seals around the door, resulting in a small water leak. The hinge can be loosened, adjusted, and fastened back into place, but the process is frustrating and somewhat complicated if you’re not the most mechanically-inclined (like me). Professional help may be the best course of action if the Viper you’re considering seems to be suffering from saggy doors; it’s not a difficult job for someone who knows what they’re doing. My 2008 Viper SRT-10 is exhibiting similar symptoms this year. The driver’s door has begun emitting a loud creak when opening fully (or closing), and lubrication of the hinge hasn’t helped. The door is rubbing somewhere, and the hinge needs to be readjusted. Note that leaving this issue unchecked can cause collateral damage to the weather seals (pricey) and window glass (pricier), so you’ll want to address it as soon as you notice any warning signs. These warnings include doors that seem to stick during some portion of their movement, doors that don’t close properly with a light push, doors that fail to engage the striker properly or even bounce back open, doors that require slamming to latch shut, or any used Viper whose door-mounted weather seals are cracked, ripped, or otherwise visibly damaged. In sum: be sure the doors open, close and latch without undue force or noise, and that all weather seals are intact and in solid shape. Powertrain stresses To prevent undue wrenching of the door hinge, I always start the engine after the doors are closed. Firing up the Viper’s big V-10 twists the car back and forth (it’s all that torque), but can also wrench on the heavy doors and their small hinges, which seems to shift things out place in quick order. With the doors closed at engine startup, this excessive wrenching of the hinges is prevented. Fun fact: during a tour of the Dodge Viper factory, one long-time Viper craftsman told me that the original hinge design was intended to be steel (stronger), though the engineers pushed for a lighter aluminum hinge (softer). In the day, he figured this might cause problems for some owners, and it turns out he was right. “The fifth-generation cars use a different hinge, and the doors are much lighter, since they’re made from an aluminum film that’s shaped by air in a mould” he said. Wheel alignment Dodge Vipers have, I figure, a somewhat unfounded reputation for dodgy handling and being difficult to control. In my opinion, these problems are mainly driver-related (not car-related), but that’s a topic for a different story. Of course, the Viper’s steam-roller tires do try and follow every nook, cranny, and tar-strip on the road, which means the car often seems to be squirming and shuffling even as you drive along in a straight line. Still, don’t underestimate the difference that a proper wheel alignment can make. I recently had one performed in a dealer setting on my 2008 for the first time, and the difference in handling, stability, and response while steering and braking were notable — especially in terms of reduced workload at the wheel. It’s easy to assume ‘this is just how Vipers handle’, though a fresh alignment instantly made my 2008 feel more precise, more responsive, and less labor-intensive to drive on the highway. In my case, the difference was night-and-day. As an added bonus, proper alignment means that the (very pricey) tires won’t wear as quickly. Power windows The power windows on both of my Vipers were finicky and fussy. Compared to most cars, I found the power windows in both of my Vipers to feel and sound harsh when in use. They’ve also been the cause of various headaches, especially in my 2008. This Viper has a feature called window indexing, a fancy way of saying that the window drops a half-inch or so when the door handle is pressed, allowing it to clear the body of the car and for the door to open and close more easily. The indexing function on the passenger side window failed one day, meaning that opening the passenger door meant catching the upper ‘corner’ of the glass inside of the opening, contacting it and wearing down the finish. Closing the passenger door likewise resulted in contact of the window against the body in the same spot. This can all result in wear to the vehicle’s paint, a noisier drive, and an increased likelihood of damaging the Viper’s finicky and sometimes-fragile power window hardware because of an unintended impact. On your test drive, note that one, both, or none of the power windows may be suffering this problem, and that the problem may be sporadic in nature. I can’t offer a fix that’s worked reliably for me, though disconnecting and reconnecting the battery does typically fix the issue for a time. On your test drive, confirm that both power windows work as expected, and be sure to carefully inspect the outer edge of the upper door opening above the window itself for signs of marking, paint damage, or scuffing that indicate contact. Cooling system and overheating Some owners have reported overheating of their Viper, especially in situations with high ambient temperatures, and during sustained periods of heavy-throttle driving, such as in a motorsports setting. Other owners have reported random engine overheating as a possibility from time to time, with a temperature gauge that may suddenly push towards the dangerous red zone on the coolant gauge randomly, and without warning. Many other owners have experienced no overheating issues from their Vipers. Several factors may contribute to a Viper’s engine overheating, as well as inconsistent or seemingly random coolant-temperature fluctuations. To protect yourself and avoid surprises, start with a pre-purchase inspection that includes the used Viper’s cooling system, including the coolant level and condition, an inspection of the water pump and surrounding area (for leaks), all hoses, the thermostat, the cooling fan(s) and associated wiring and relays, and the radiator itself. Have a professional inspect both the engine oil and engine coolant for signs of cross-contamination, which could indicate a head-gasket problem. On your test drive, take note of the coolant temperature gauge at various points. The needle should settle somewhere around the middle of the gauge and stay there, perhaps creeping up slightly over the halfway mark on hotter days. If the gauge suddenly climbs towards the red zone for no apparent reason, the vehicle you’re considering should be seen by a professional before you buy. In this application, an overheating engine can be the result of a simple problem like an air bubble in the cooling system, or a serious one like a failing head gasket. You’ll want to know before you buy. Run the Viper’s heater on your test-drive, too. If functioning properly, the heater will have no trouble pushing a lot of hot air into the Viper’s cabin once the engine is warmed up. If that’s not the case, or if the heat suddenly seems to disappear, have the system checked professionally. Some owners have successfully fixed problems by ‘burping’ air bubbles out of the cooling system. Ask a professional if you’re not sure how. Driveline clunks The Viper’s driveline is not a pinnacle of refinement, and certain noises and vibrations are more prominent than you may be used to. The question is which of these are normal, and which are cause for concern? When checking out the user Viper you’re considering, quiet the cabin and listen for a few specific sounds in a few specific situations to prevent unwanted surprises. First, place the vehicle in neutral with the engine running at idle and the clutch pedal pressed fully. Slowly release the clutch pedal, listening closely for any sign of a scraping, whirring, or grinding sound as the clutch is released. If you hear such a sound, press the clutch pedal in again to see if it goes away. The sound may seem to be coming through the floor near the driver’s feet. This sound can indicate a worn throw-out bearing, a part usually changed with the clutch. I’ve noticed this sound on both of my Vipers. In both cases, it’s remedied by replacing the clutch, which includes a new bearing. You can drive your Viper while it’s making this noise, but if the bearing or associated hardware eventually fails, your clutch may become unusable. You’ll also want to be on the lookout for unwanted sounds from the rear differential. The oil in this component needs to be changed regularly with a specific gear oil and a precise amount of friction-modifying additive. Using the wrong type or amount of gear oil or friction modifier can result in unfavourable consequences, including rear-axle noise. If your rear-axle oil isn’t serviced regularly by someone who knows what they’re doing, you’ll likely be hearing from your Viper’s rear end. When driving a Viper, the differential sits just behind and beneath the driver. Though some whirring and light clunking from time to time is largely considered normal, any binding, whining, or heavy clunks — especially at low speed — can be signs of trouble. Final Thought These tips are designed to help test-driving shoppers more easily identify possible trouble areas reported by some owners. An attentive test-drive and shopping process that focuses on the areas above can help you find a first-class example of a secondhand 1996-2010 Dodge Viper. Source: driving ca |
2023.06.07 19:01 NJ-Khoury Inspection just came back, I'm devastated
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2023.06.06 18:38 AvailableProgram667 23' model x LR is in the shop, got a loaner 17' model s 75. I like driving/using the loaner better
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2023.06.06 13:41 gemini1776 2017 Chevy Silverado issues
2023.06.06 12:43 WackoKacko Thoughts on me using a rectifier instead of a power supply for this induction heater?
![]() | Hey guys. Bear with me. submitted by WackoKacko to AskElectronics [link] [comments] So I've been looking at this 2.5kW induction heating module lately, hungrily (link, £80 on Amazon). It takes 12-48V DC input. It's a Royer oscillator. https://preview.redd.it/9sl91vb7kd4b1.png?width=417&format=png&auto=webp&s=8224f17d365a7c5dda8c0e78077cfc14d989f850 You may find yourself thinking "damn shame it needs DC power, i'd melt all kinds of things with it if i didn't need to buy a huge power supply to go with it" (link, £600 on Farnell). Same here, friend. So I started thinking I'll just power it with a rectifier instead, since induction heating doesn't need a stable DC supply, just something more or less DC to turn into >10kHz AC. Turns out I can order one no problem (link, £20 on Amazon). Got excited at the prospect of a £100 spoon-melting device, but then I thought the components inside aren't rated for 400VDC. This led me to find the circuit schematic for an open-source 3kW induction heater (link to site). https://preview.redd.it/8xqvkjyhmd4b1.png?width=704&format=png&auto=webp&s=e469d6dde09df236f3af1667bd684a5e17e2c97d You guys reckon I can swap out the components for higher rated ones and add on the rectifier circuit get this thing to work with single phase mains? Royer oscillators are wack, and I know nothing about them, so I ask. ChatGPT told me I can go ahead and do it, so it must be ok, right? ... ;) A big thank you in advance to any helpful wizards out there. |
2023.06.06 05:28 Rofflesaur 2008 GM 5.3L Vortec - Mysterious Coolant Disappearance
2023.06.06 03:17 CalicoKahlia86 WIBTA for not paying a repair man to fix our pool heater.
2023.06.06 00:45 shoesfullofwater My landlords are in violation of landlord tenant law, but they're also my husband's employer and we are concerned about retaliation. Are there legal protections for employee housing? (WA)
2023.06.05 17:19 Grease_Kaiju Car is in limp mode after addressing misfire.
2023.06.05 04:32 desertbuddy12 2003 LT Interior swapped back to 1999-02?!
![]() | I recently bought a 2003 LT Silverado Duramax. 170K for 7k. It needed a few things but not bad(at least i didnt know) it has a new gmc bed with some dings and dents. I got a newsteering wheel from a 05 with steering wheel controls but it wouldnt fit because the splines, I was confused but ignored it. But then I sent the cluster off to get repaired and the guy informed me its a 2002 cluster which shouldnt even be possible to plug into the 2003 computers. He couldnt even fix it because it was so old. After further investigation somehow they swapped the whole dash and steering coloumn back to a 2002 chevy. Must have spent some serious coin. Any advice or should i just make it look pretty and sell it submitted by desertbuddy12 to CateyeChevy [link] [comments] |
2023.06.05 03:50 LGN_22 New user, bed mesh problem, printer.cfg file inserted for review
![]() | EDIT/UPDATE- I found a file written for the CR-10 and found I had miscopied the rotation for stepper Z. If you look below, it should be 16/8, but I had it as 16/40 when I added the revised data. submitted by LGN_22 to klippers [link] [comments] After doing that, I noticed the Z-axis was moving more quickly than before. I did have to reverse the direction pin, as on auto home it started climbing and wasn't stopping. All good after that, it auto homed all 3 OK. The bed height map was much better, but still wrong, it shows as over 1mm of difference between, the two sides. I used a caliper and found it was like .2mm. Still more work to do here. I found a file for the CR-10 Smart Pro that uses the Sprite Pro extruder and copied settings for it, modifying pin assignments to match my board. / edit I'm rebuilding a refurb CR-10. It has a Manta E3EZ board w/CB1, Sprite Pro extruder with CR Touch, an AC bed heater, and a 1/4 aluminum bed with magnetic PEI sheet. I added dual Z motors, and a top mounted z-sync belt. The z-motors each use one of the two z-ports on the board, they work together and can't be independently controlled (this is possible using the E1 driver). I got Klipper loaded via the instructions that came with the Manta board. All x-y-z movements seem OK now, I had some problems with z but I think I'm mostly past them. When I first set this up, the probe was hitting the bed on the second z measure on homing. I set the z-hop higher and also added in a section I found on this board for the CR Touch. This allowed me to run a 4x4 bed height map. I added bed spring positions and dialed them in close before I added the PEI mag base. I ran bed_springs_adjust (manual bed level) with a piece of paper and got the gap close. My z-offset seems way too high as well. Here's the problem: The bed height map shows the bed is like 5mm low on the right side (picture attached). It's clearly not that low. https://preview.redd.it/712rgeu0r34b1.jpg?width=1879&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=41842b1fa6a0bd3aafd4a16dd270d8df79d8e6b6 I'll paste my printer.cfg file here for reference. # This file contains common pin mappings for the BIGTREETECH Manta E3EZ# To use this config, the firmware should be compiled for the# STM32G0B1 with a "8KiB bootloader" "8 MHz crystal"# and "USB (on PA11/PA12)" or "CAN bus (on PB12/PB13)". # See docs/Config_Reference.md for a description of parameters. [include mainsail.cfg] [stepper_x]step_pin: PA14dir_pin: !PA10enable_pin: !PA13microsteps: 16rotation_distance: 40endstop_pin: ^PC4position_endstop: 0position_max: 300homing_speed: 50 [stepper_y]step_pin: PC8dir_pin: !PA15enable_pin: !PC14microsteps: 16rotation_distance: 40endstop_pin: ^PB0position_endstop: 0position_max: 300homing_speed: 50 #[stepper_z]#step_pin: PD2#dir_pin: PD4#enable_pin: !PD3#microsteps: 16#rotation_distance: 8#endstop_pin: probe:z_virtual_endstop#position_endstop: 0#position_max: 400 [stepper_z]step_pin: PD2dir_pin: !PD4enable_pin: !PD3microsteps: 16rotation_distance: 40endstop_pin: probe:z_virtual_endstopposition_max: 395position_min: -6homing_speed: 50homing_retract_dist: 10.0homing_retract_speed: 20second_homing_speed: 5 #Old bltouch settings#[bltouch]#sensor_pin: ^PA6#control_pin: PA7#x_offset: -36.5#y_offset: -40.0#samples: 2#speed: 2#z_offset: 0.0 #CRTouch Probe settings[bltouch]sensor_pin: ^PA6control_pin: PA7x_offset: -36.5y_offset: -40#z_offset: 0probe_with_touch_mode: Truepin_up_touch_mode_reports_triggered: Truestow_on_each_sample: False # Keep the probe extended between pointssamples: 2 # Probe each point at least twicesamples_tolerance: 0.0125 # If those measurements aren't this close thensamples_tolerance_retries: 5 # Re-probe this many times and use the average [safe_z_home]home_xy_position: 155,155 # Change coordinates to the center of your print bedz_hop: 12 # Move up 10mmspeed: 50z_hop_speed: 5 [bed_screws]screw1: 25,32screw1_name: Front left screwscrew2: 25,272screw2_name: Rear left screwscrew3: 267,272screw3_name: Rear right screwscrew4: 267,32screw4_name: Front right screw [bed_mesh]speed: 120horizontal_move_z: 25mesh_min: 10, 10mesh_max: 253.5, 250probe_count: 4,4algorithm: bicubicfade_start: 1fade_end: 10fade_target: 0 [extruder]step_pin: PD5dir_pin: !PD6enable_pin: !PB3microsteps: 16rotation_distance: 33.500nozzle_diameter: 0.400filament_diameter: 1.750heater_pin: PB11 #HE0sensor_type: EPCOS 100K B57560G104Fsensor_pin: PA4 #TH0control: pidpid_Kp: 21.527pid_Ki: 1.063pid_Kd: 108.982min_temp: 0max_temp: 300 #[filament_switch_sensor material_0]#switch_pin: PC5 #[extruder1]#step_pin: PB7#dir_pin: PB6#enable_pin: !PB4#heater_pin: PB10 # HE1#sensor_pin: PA5 # T1 #[filament_switch_sensor material_1]#switch_pin: PB1 [heater_bed]heater_pin: PB2 #HBsensor_type: EPCOS 100K B57560G104F #Generic 3950sensor_pin: PA3 #TBcontrol: watermarkmin_temp: 0max_temp: 130 [fan]pin: PA8 #[heater_fan fan1]#pin: PB15 #[heater_fan fan2]#pin: PB14 [mcu]serial: /dev/serial/by-id/usb-Klipper_stm32g0b1xx*******(intentionally blanked) [printer]kinematics: cartesianmax_velocity: 300max_accel: 3000max_z_velocity: 5max_z_accel: 100 #########################################TMC2209 configuration######################################## [tmc2209 stepper_x]uart_pin: PB8#diag_pin: PC4run_current: 0.800stealthchop_threshold: 999999 [tmc2209 stepper_y]uart_pin: PC9#diag_pin: PB0run_current: 0.800stealthchop_threshold: 999999 [tmc2209 stepper_z]uart_pin: PD0#diag_pin: PC6run_current: 0.650stealthchop_threshold: 999999 [tmc2209 extruder]uart_pin: PD1run_current: 0.800stealthchop_threshold: 999999 #[tmc2209 extruder1]#uart_pin: PB5#run_current: 0.800#stealthchop_threshold: 999999 ######################################### TMC2130 configuration######################################## #[tmc2130 stepper_x]#cs_pin: PB8#spi_software_miso_pin: PC11#spi_software_mosi_pin: PC12#spi_software_sclk_pin: PC10##diag1_pin: PF3#run_current: 0.800#stealthchop_threshold: 999999 #[tmc2130 stepper_y]#cs_pin: PC9#spi_software_miso_pin: PC11#spi_software_mosi_pin: PC12#spi_software_sclk_pin: PC10##diag1_pin: PF4#run_current: 0.800#stealthchop_threshold: 999999 #[tmc2130 stepper_z]#cs_pin: PD0#spi_software_miso_pin: PC11#spi_software_mosi_pin: PC12#spi_software_sclk_pin: PC10##diag1_pin: PF5#run_current: 0.650#stealthchop_threshold: 999999 #[tmc2130 extruder]#cs_pin: PD1#spi_software_miso_pin: PC11#spi_software_mosi_pin: PC12#spi_software_sclk_pin: PC10#run_current: 0.800#stealthchop_threshold: 999999 #[tmc2130 extruder1]#cs_pin: PB5#spi_software_miso_pin: PC11#spi_software_mosi_pin: PC12#spi_software_sclk_pin: PC10#run_current: 0.800#stealthchop_threshold: 999999 [board_pins]aliases:# EXP1 headerEXP1_1=PC1, EXP1_3=PC3, EXP1_5=PC0, EXP1_7=PA2, EXP1_9= #[output_pin PS_ON]#pin: PA9 #[output_pin pb9_pin]#pin: PB9#[neopixel my_neopixel]#pin: PC7 #[adxl345]#cs_pin: PC15#spi_software_miso_pin: PC11#spi_software_mosi_pin: PC12#spi_software_sclk_pin: PC10 #*# <---------------------- SAVE_CONFIG --------------------#*# DO NOT EDIT THIS BLOCK OR BELOW. The contents are auto-generated.#*##*# [bltouch]#*# z_offset = 11.937 |
2023.06.05 03:04 Sparkycivic BBQ thermometer "Expert Grill" BLE device