1996 chevy silverado heater control problems

2011 chevy silverado 1500 ac issues

2023.06.09 03:55 My77thaccount 2011 chevy silverado 1500 ac issues

I've got a 2011 chevy silverado 1500 and a couple months ago the air conditioning started having problems. It would work about every other time I started my truck and then cut out entirely. I replaced the blower motor and resistor but that didn't fix anything. I can still feel cold air trying to come out but it's not blowing. A few days ago I hit a bump in the road and it kicked on for about 20 minutes but would only blow on high. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
submitted by My77thaccount to Chevy [link] [comments]

2023.06.08 22:21 Solerien I'm considering buying a 2023 S60 Recharge Ultimate edition. I have some questions about PILOT ASSIST.

My current car is a 2020 Tesla Model 3 Long Range with Autopilot and FSD. I want to compare Autopilot to PILOT ASSIST. I mostly drive in Los Angeles and Orange County in California.
  1. One of my biggest with Autopilot problems is the Lane Centering (aka Auto-Steer); cars in the lane next to me sometimes decide to drive on the lane markings and every time I turn the steering wheel slightly to the left or right to get away from them the "Auto-Steer" turns off and I have to re-engage it to get my car to stay in its lane automatically. Would PILOT ASSIST turn off if I turned the steering wheel to adjust my position in my lane?
  2. My Tesla's Autopilot will not turn on in all situations. For example if I'm waiting on a freeway on-ramp it will not turn on because it can't clearly see the lane markings. Will PILOT ASSIST turn on in all situations?
  3. Tesla has a lot of annoying sounds when you make any maneuvers it disagrees with, these are a huge distraction. Does PILOT ASSIST have loud distracting alerts every time you do something like going through a large intersection where there are no cars in front of you?
  4. Does PILOT ASSIST steer the car at low speeds, like in 3 mph bumper to bumper Los Angeles traffic?
  5. Does PILOT ASSIST randomly turn itself off?
  6. On my Tesla when it asks me to apply steering pressure to show I'm still driving usually it takes a bit of turning to get it to recognize my turning and if I turn too hard Auto-Steer will disengage. Although, instead of turning I can also turn the column key on my steering wheel to show I'm paying attention. Does PILOT ASSIST require a lot of turning pressure to register that I'm paying attention, and can I use the volume key instead of turning the wheel?
  7. Can PILOT ASSIST stop for red lights and Stop signs?
  8. Tesla's Autopilot stops for green lights, red lights, and stop signs. Does PILOT ASSIST stop for green lights?
  9. When I signal to change lanes will a camera show me the lane next to me, Honda and Tesla have this feature.
  10. Can PILOT ASSIST change lanes for me or do I have to change lanes manually?
  11. Will PILOT ASSIST alert me when my exit is coming up and recommend I change lanes? Can it detect which lanes I'm driving in and alert me to which lanes I should be driving in so I don't miss my exit?
  12. Unrelated to PILOT ASSIST, how is the ride comfort, temperature control, and road noise on the S60? My Tesla has horrible suspension, I can feel every little hole in road and the car will swing me around whenever I make a turn. Also, road noise and wind noise are horrible, I can't even listen to music because all I hear is my tires riding on the asphalt. Tesla also isn't well insulated and if it's hot outside I'll have to put the A/C on full blast to stay cool, if it's cold outside I will freeze my butt off even with the heater on full blast.
submitted by Solerien to Volvo [link] [comments]

2023.06.08 21:47 cliffman1992 Honest Review (multi-car customer)

I would like to start by saying this is an honest review. I was an extremely loyal Carvana customer and the first to defend Carvana from anyone saying how bad they were. I have purchased 2 cars from Carvana over the past 5 years. I am going to provide an honest review of both experiences because I want to outline exactly how much the customer experience has degraded in my personal opinion.
If you finish reading this and have any questions, please feel free to AMA about my experiences.

1st Vehicle Experience (2019) 5 Stars, amazing experience
I purchased a 2018 Ford Fusion. This vehicle arrived as advertised, all exterior markings were clearly listed on the site and I could find no issues on the exterior that weren't marked. They delayed my shipping which I was perturbed about as I had paid good money for shipping. When the car arrived, the driver had a gift card he gave me for some restaurants which I thought was an amazing gesture. The driver unloaded my vehicle and scrapped the front and back bumpers off the ground because the car was low and the ground uneven. I was assured this would be fixed. I got the car home and realized there was dog hair all through the back seat. I contacted Carvana about both issues. They sent me $250 to get the car cleaned and footed the entire bill for repairs (almost $2000) to get it fully repaired. This earned my loyalty to their brand and decided I'd buy cars from Carvana in the future.
TL;DR; Amazing experience, driver was incredibly respectful and Carvana fixed every complaint I had and I felt actually went above and beyond to ensure I was happy including a swag bag.

2nd Vehicle Experience (2023) 1 Star at best, awful experience lost a customer
I purchased a 2021 Chevy Silverado RST 6 1/2 FT bed with DFM from their site. There were a few usual delays during purchasing nothing major. Delivery day comes. I receive a text from the driver with a 15-minute time frame for their arrival. Wait a full hour before texting the number, I get a response when the driver pulls into the parking lot 1 hour and 10 minutes after the arrival time they gave me. I'm out of their market so this involved me sitting in a parking lot for a full hour. No apologies, just a joke about how they needed to stop for an energy drink. I ignore it, shit happens... they unload the vehicle and I take it for a test drive. Everything seems fine, I sign for the vehicle and drive it home. At this point, I have a few parts waiting for the truck including a bed cover which oddly does not fit. I start doing some decoding of the VIN number and realize the truck is actually a 5 3/4 FT bed. I also notice there are some deep gouges in the paint that weren't marked (one side had no scratches at all marked) and there's also a dent in the tailgate. At this point, I'm a bit nervous but I've had good experiences in the past so I assume it'll all work out. I open a complaint about the bed, I wait to hear back. They offer me a $100 check which I feel honestly is a slap in the face. I ask to have the shipping fees waived as this clearly wasn't my fault and would like to return the truck. They refuse. At this point, I'm either out around $1200 ($190 to get it to my state, $520 to get it to me, and $520 to get it back for the return) or I take the $100 and just forget about it. I ask to have a manager call me. They assure me a manager will call in 24 hours as now it is getting close to my 7-day return window and I am pretty displeased. A manager never called me and today I finally just accepted this is my truck now and took the $100 as I didn't want to lose $1200 out of pocket.
As a side note, the truck was listed with DFM but does not have DFM. Another feature they miss annotated but I've decided contacting them about it is not worth the extra $100 as each time has been a significant hassle. I had seen this feature was missing and actually didn't want it anyway so it worked.
So now I move on to the next issue the gouges in the paint and the dent that weren't disclosed. I take pictures and submit a claim request through their website. The pictures are sent to their insurance company. In about 3 hours I am informed that these scratches while not disclosed anywhere are "normal wear" and are being refused to be covered.
TL;DR; The delivery driver was extremely disrespectful. The customer support has mocked me and belittled my problems. They sold me a truck with a 5 3/4 FT bed as a 6 1/2 FT bed that has multiple scratches and a dent they had no pictures of and did not disclose in any way. Their solution was to offer me $100 dollars and refused to allow me to send the truck back without losing money.

Safe to say I will NEVER purchase another vehicle from Carvana. It's a shame really, they're usually cheaper than dealers around here and in the past have shown amazing customer response. However, the customer experience is horrible now. An online retailer that can't get the simple facts correct or mark obvious imperfections while refusing to work with the customer in any way does not deserve anyones business.

EDIT: Corrected information about when I saw they mis marked the DFM feature.
submitted by cliffman1992 to carvana [link] [comments]

2023.06.08 04:46 silly_goose_guy How do New Bettas Act? (might be a sick fish)

How do New Bettas Act? (might be a sick fish)
I got a new betta recently (my very first one) under some weird circumstances (outlined here). The problem is, I think he's acting strange? when I first got him in, he was much more active than I expected, looking at all the decor, checking out the floating plants (giant duckweed), looking at the filteheater, etc. but today (two days later, one water change) he's just been sitting at the bottom of the tank and only swims every few hours to come to the surface and breathe. I assumed it was high ammonia and did a 25% water change but he's still acting like this.
Is this normal for a new (and pretty stressed) betta or should I look more into this?
(water is at 79.3 F (used an actual thermometer, not the one on the side), was nitrogen cycling for 2 weeks beforehand, haven't tested yet because my mother insists he's just stressed)
EDIT, STILL HAVENT TESTED BUT THE ISSUE IS RESOLVED ANYWAYS. (I'm still going to get a test kit tho)
turns out im an IDIOT and the weird L shaped screw thing that came with my filter was important (it had no instructions and i couldn't find anything online) turns out its an air control valve and my air flow is too strong! my power went out for like ~15 minutes and Mr. Mercury was zippin around perfectly fine after a few minutes. I was pushing him around with a too strong filter. I feel real bad but at least now I know he's not somehow dying, my anxiety got the best of me on that one sorry guys
submitted by silly_goose_guy to bettafish [link] [comments]

2023.06.08 03:15 lexushelicopterwatch Trading in and scaling up to two

I have a paid off 2016 Chevy Silverado high country with 65k miles and extended height leer camper. From what I can tell my vehicle is valued at $28k, but let’s just round down to $25k. I’m thinking I give it up while it still has value. Credit score is at 800+ so financing shouldn’t be a problem. Budget is ~$90k for both cars. There’s wiggle room.
I have a four year old, two 7month olds, and two dogs, and myyy wiiiffeee. I work from home and my wife commutes days a week about 20 miles away. The grandmas come over and provide day care, and if my wife is working that day and I need to run an errand, I borrow the grandmas car. Which leaves them stranded at the house waiting for 911 in the event of an emergency. Mayo is 2 miles away. So I’ve come to the conclusion we need two cars.
I know a minivan is in my future. I have my eye on the plug-in Pacifica pinnacle, but the sienna keeps pulling me back. This vehicle needs to fit our entire family dogs included, for our yearly road-trip from Wisconsin to central Texas. The plug-in looks cool because I think we can do 95% of our trips without going over the electric range. Those Toyota 4 bangers are hard to resist though.
Which leads me to the second car. No dogs need to fit. Just all the humans when necessary for when wife does drop offs and I do pickups. It would basically be my car. Preferably a used car that’s less than 5 years old and 35k miles, I don’t have time to wrench. I have connections in the classic Cadillac circles, and have restored several, but I don’t think it’s time to put vapor lock on my list of concerns. CTS-V wagon would a dream but it’s a little out of budget and pretty rare.
Finally, if I can find both cars at the same dealer, can I use that to get a better deal, or could they care less?
What would you do, sienna or plug-in Pacifica? What 4 door produced within the past 5 years would be fun to drive and fit 3 car seats without much hassle?
submitted by lexushelicopterwatch to whatcarshouldIbuy [link] [comments]

2023.06.07 20:30 khoafraelich789 Used Car Guide: 1996-2010 Dodge Viper

Used Car Guide: 1996-2010 Dodge Viper
5 tips to find a first-class example of a secondhand Dodge Viper.

I’ve got a Dodge Viper problem. Despite their horrifying fuel consumption, restricted outward visibility, leg-singeing rocker panels, and an exhaust note like a hot-rod UPS truck, I’ve enjoyed driving two of these machines for the better part of 10 years and about 65,000 kilometres to date.

My first Viper was a 2000 GTS Coupe. My childhood dream car, we spent five years and about 45,000 kilometres together driving around town, going on road trips, lapping various tracks, and attending car shows and the like.

About four years ago I traded this unit in for a 2008 Dodge Viper SRT-10 Coupe. We’ve done about 20,000 kilometres together, partaking in a similar range of activities.

I’ve had zero mechanical problems associated with the driveline in either of my cars, and little more than the odd electronic hiccup resulting from a weak battery or wonky sensor. I’ve owned a lot of cars, and my two Vipers have been among the most reliable — second only to my 1993 Nissan 240SX.

The key success factor here is that I’ve had both units checked over fully by a qualified ‘Viper Tech’ in a dealer setting, on my dime, before purchase. In both cases, this pre-purchase checkup was worth the investment. For my first Viper, the inspection revealed thousands worth of upcoming repair- and replacement parts which helped me negotiate a much better deal; on my second car, it picked up a dead trunk-release button which the selling dealership fixed on their dime, and also confirmed that this car was in otherwise excellent shape.

To be clear: the best thing you can do before buying a used Dodge Viper is to make arrangements to have it seen by a Viper-trained technician in a dealer setting.

Still, after a decade of V-10 Mopar motoring, I’ve also come up with some additional tips to share with potential used Dodge Viper shoppers, especially those considering a vintage like mine — that is, the second- to fourth-generation cars.

Following these tips can help you enjoy a more trouble-free driving experience and avert potential headaches or surprises with your new toy.

Door hinges

I’ve found the door hinges in both of my Vipers to be quite fussy, and I’m not alone.

In my 2000 GTS, the doors seemed to sag with repeated use over time. The driver’s door hinge eventually needed to be readjusted multiple times to prevent the door from striking the body when closing. The out-of-alignment door hinge also caused damage to the weather seals around the door, resulting in a small water leak.

The hinge can be loosened, adjusted, and fastened back into place, but the process is frustrating and somewhat complicated if you’re not the most mechanically-inclined (like me). Professional help may be the best course of action if the Viper you’re considering seems to be suffering from saggy doors; it’s not a difficult job for someone who knows what they’re doing.

My 2008 Viper SRT-10 is exhibiting similar symptoms this year. The driver’s door has begun emitting a loud creak when opening fully (or closing), and lubrication of the hinge hasn’t helped. The door is rubbing somewhere, and the hinge needs to be readjusted.

Note that leaving this issue unchecked can cause collateral damage to the weather seals (pricey) and window glass (pricier), so you’ll want to address it as soon as you notice any warning signs.

These warnings include doors that seem to stick during some portion of their movement, doors that don’t close properly with a light push, doors that fail to engage the striker properly or even bounce back open, doors that require slamming to latch shut, or any used Viper whose door-mounted weather seals are cracked, ripped, or otherwise visibly damaged.

In sum: be sure the doors open, close and latch without undue force or noise, and that all weather seals are intact and in solid shape.

Powertrain stresses
To prevent undue wrenching of the door hinge, I always start the engine after the doors are closed.

Firing up the Viper’s big V-10 twists the car back and forth (it’s all that torque), but can also wrench on the heavy doors and their small hinges, which seems to shift things out place in quick order. With the doors closed at engine startup, this excessive wrenching of the hinges is prevented.

Fun fact: during a tour of the Dodge Viper factory, one long-time Viper craftsman told me that the original hinge design was intended to be steel (stronger), though the engineers pushed for a lighter aluminum hinge (softer). In the day, he figured this might cause problems for some owners, and it turns out he was right.

“The fifth-generation cars use a different hinge, and the doors are much lighter, since they’re made from an aluminum film that’s shaped by air in a mould” he said.

Wheel alignment

Dodge Vipers have, I figure, a somewhat unfounded reputation for dodgy handling and being difficult to control. In my opinion, these problems are mainly driver-related (not car-related), but that’s a topic for a different story.

Of course, the Viper’s steam-roller tires do try and follow every nook, cranny, and tar-strip on the road, which means the car often seems to be squirming and shuffling even as you drive along in a straight line.

Still, don’t underestimate the difference that a proper wheel alignment can make. I recently had one performed in a dealer setting on my 2008 for the first time, and the difference in handling, stability, and response while steering and braking were notable — especially in terms of reduced workload at the wheel. It’s easy to assume ‘this is just how Vipers handle’, though a fresh alignment instantly made my 2008 feel more precise, more responsive, and less labor-intensive to drive on the highway.

In my case, the difference was night-and-day. As an added bonus, proper alignment means that the (very pricey) tires won’t wear as quickly.

Power windows

The power windows on both of my Vipers were finicky and fussy. Compared to most cars, I found the power windows in both of my Vipers to feel and sound harsh when in use. They’ve also been the cause of various headaches, especially in my 2008.

This Viper has a feature called window indexing, a fancy way of saying that the window drops a half-inch or so when the door handle is pressed, allowing it to clear the body of the car and for the door to open and close more easily.

The indexing function on the passenger side window failed one day, meaning that opening the passenger door meant catching the upper ‘corner’ of the glass inside of the opening, contacting it and wearing down the finish. Closing the passenger door likewise resulted in contact of the window against the body in the same spot.

This can all result in wear to the vehicle’s paint, a noisier drive, and an increased likelihood of damaging the Viper’s finicky and sometimes-fragile power window hardware because of an unintended impact.

On your test drive, note that one, both, or none of the power windows may be suffering this problem, and that the problem may be sporadic in nature. I can’t offer a fix that’s worked reliably for me, though disconnecting and reconnecting the battery does typically fix the issue for a time.

On your test drive, confirm that both power windows work as expected, and be sure to carefully inspect the outer edge of the upper door opening above the window itself for signs of marking, paint damage, or scuffing that indicate contact.

Cooling system and overheating

Some owners have reported overheating of their Viper, especially in situations with high ambient temperatures, and during sustained periods of heavy-throttle driving, such as in a motorsports setting. Other owners have reported random engine overheating as a possibility from time to time, with a temperature gauge that may suddenly push towards the dangerous red zone on the coolant gauge randomly, and without warning. Many other owners have experienced no overheating issues from their Vipers.

Several factors may contribute to a Viper’s engine overheating, as well as inconsistent or seemingly random coolant-temperature fluctuations.

To protect yourself and avoid surprises, start with a pre-purchase inspection that includes the used Viper’s cooling system, including the coolant level and condition, an inspection of the water pump and surrounding area (for leaks), all hoses, the thermostat, the cooling fan(s) and associated wiring and relays, and the radiator itself.

Have a professional inspect both the engine oil and engine coolant for signs of cross-contamination, which could indicate a head-gasket problem.

On your test drive, take note of the coolant temperature gauge at various points. The needle should settle somewhere around the middle of the gauge and stay there, perhaps creeping up slightly over the halfway mark on hotter days. If the gauge suddenly climbs towards the red zone for no apparent reason, the vehicle you’re considering should be seen by a professional before you buy.

In this application, an overheating engine can be the result of a simple problem like an air bubble in the cooling system, or a serious one like a failing head gasket. You’ll want to know before you buy.

Run the Viper’s heater on your test-drive, too. If functioning properly, the heater will have no trouble pushing a lot of hot air into the Viper’s cabin once the engine is warmed up. If that’s not the case, or if the heat suddenly seems to disappear, have the system checked professionally. Some owners have successfully fixed problems by ‘burping’ air bubbles out of the cooling system. Ask a professional if you’re not sure how.

Driveline clunks

The Viper’s driveline is not a pinnacle of refinement, and certain noises and vibrations are more prominent than you may be used to. The question is which of these are normal, and which are cause for concern?

When checking out the user Viper you’re considering, quiet the cabin and listen for a few specific sounds in a few specific situations to prevent unwanted surprises.

First, place the vehicle in neutral with the engine running at idle and the clutch pedal pressed fully. Slowly release the clutch pedal, listening closely for any sign of a scraping, whirring, or grinding sound as the clutch is released. If you hear such a sound, press the clutch pedal in again to see if it goes away. The sound may seem to be coming through the floor near the driver’s feet. This sound can indicate a worn throw-out bearing, a part usually changed with the clutch.

I’ve noticed this sound on both of my Vipers. In both cases, it’s remedied by replacing the clutch, which includes a new bearing. You can drive your Viper while it’s making this noise, but if the bearing or associated hardware eventually fails, your clutch may become unusable.

You’ll also want to be on the lookout for unwanted sounds from the rear differential. The oil in this component needs to be changed regularly with a specific gear oil and a precise amount of friction-modifying additive. Using the wrong type or amount of gear oil or friction modifier can result in unfavourable consequences, including rear-axle noise. If your rear-axle oil isn’t serviced regularly by someone who knows what they’re doing, you’ll likely be hearing from your Viper’s rear end.

When driving a Viper, the differential sits just behind and beneath the driver. Though some whirring and light clunking from time to time is largely considered normal, any binding, whining, or heavy clunks — especially at low speed — can be signs of trouble.

Final Thought
These tips are designed to help test-driving shoppers more easily identify possible trouble areas reported by some owners. An attentive test-drive and shopping process that focuses on the areas above can help you find a first-class example of a secondhand 1996-2010 Dodge Viper.

Source: driving ca
submitted by khoafraelich789 to CarInformationNews [link] [comments]

2023.06.07 19:01 NJ-Khoury Inspection just came back, I'm devastated

I've been struggling to find suitable housing, especially as a disabled person with no living family to fall back on, and isn't on SSI yet. The one advantage I have is being the sole beneficiary of an irrevocable Trust, but my family was never wealthy- just frugal, so there's not even a quarter of a mil in that Trust.
About a week ago, after a lot of panic, I finally found a great home in a great location, remodeled and updated kitchen, screened porch, 622$ lot rent, a 980 sq ft 2bed/2bath "Zimmer" from 1990 (quotation marks because they went under in 88, but the outside of the home had the Zimmer tag and the data plate showed it was from the company that bought out their Selinsgrove plant).
It looked (and smelled) okay during the tour, and apparently the 45k$ price tag was just because it was in an older, more rural park where all the homes were 70s-90's and some were falling apart and in the process of being removed.
Well, the inspection report came back today: -Roof is 30yrs old and at the end of it's lifespan, two shingles missing, some buckling at the sunroom connection.
-No attic access, vapor barrier is installed over everything else. So the inspector can't even check the wood.
-No window screens, but that's whatever imo (can get adjustable screens for 20$ and gradually buy mobile home screens)
-The back door has no landing and is a steep drop. I saw that in the Realtor photos but didn't know it was required (fire safety). The park just re-paved so if it needs to be anchored in the ground, we would have to jackhammer that.
-Water heater is nearing the end of its life.
-No receptacles on the outdoor outlets, kitchen needs GFCI, though I have a friend who does simple electrical like that.
-No CO2 detector, needs more smoke detectors. I don't think PA has a hard-wired requirement though.
-The breaker box needs the thing that prevents it from shorting out when power is restored after an outage.
-Shutoff for the water seems to be inaccessible.
-The worst ones: it's supported by a block foundation (cinderblocks, rebar, mortar) but apparently code requires it to have concrete footing.
-And the tie-downs are in dirt.
At 45k$ I was thinking, well if it costs 10k$ to fix all these things, that's 55k$ which is still good, and better than a 60-70k$ unit (like most of the homes I find) that will still require 5k$ in repairs even if it's just replacing the roof.
Sadly, the Realtor that was working for our side said it's just too much to do, and my Trustee who is controlling this sale and buying the home agreed to back out.
I'm supposed to be moving September 9th. That's still enough time to find a home, but I'm just worried that anything I find under my 75k$ budget is going to have at least one big expensive problem anyway, especially since that price is usually for 80's 90's homes where things like the roof, HVAC, and foundation hasn't been touched since the home was first manufactured.
submitted by NJ-Khoury to ManufacturedHome [link] [comments]

2023.06.07 06:01 Fungus_Am0ngus Help dialing in environment in mushroom grow tent located in a basement

I have a 1000 CF (10x10x10) grow tent in my basement that I am trying to dial in to optimal grow conditions.
Knowns: Mushrooms generate a decent amount of CO2, and I have a 24 year old and a 170lb dog in my basement, which also contributes to the CO2. With no cold air return, all CO2 in the house aggregates in the basement as there are 2 vents in the ceiling.
Ideal conditions are: CO2: < 800ppm Temp: Between 60° and 70° F (lower end is better). Humidity: 90-95% Tent keeping negative pressure so spores don't go into the basement.
My basement ambient is: CO2:~1300ppm Temp: Between 65° and 73°F Humidity: ~53%
Currently, I have a homemade humidifier capable of taking the tent from 80% Humidity to 95% Humidity in about 2 minutes. This pushes air via a 4" fan that pulls ambient basement air into my tent. The humidifier kicks on when the tent hits 80% Humidity.
My tent has a 6" exhaust fan that exhausts to the outside whenever CO2 hits 1200ppm. It runs until the CO2 hits 900 ppm. This results in my exhaust fan running almost nonstop as it is pulling ambient basement air into the tent, which spikes the tent CO2 to 1300+ppm and then slowly lowers the CO2 as it slowly exhausts basement air, pulling in lower CO2 air from under the basement door (rest of the house is normally around 500 ppm).
I have been chewing on this for awhile now trying to figure out the best route forward and am hoping for some advice as I am no hvac specialist.
My various thoughts (and their problems as I see them):
  1. Run the intake to my 4" humidifier fan outside and grab low CO2 air directly from outside.
Pros: Would solve CO2 problem.
Cons: Lose benefit of conditioned basement air that is already at a good Temp, would need to condition the air somehow to proper Humidity and temp to not shock mushrooms in midwest weather (100° F heat on some days, sub 0 Temp in winters on some days).
  1. Add cold air return to basement to better distribute air through the house and lower basement CO2.
Pro: Easy to do
Cons: Would increase ambient basement Temp resulting in the need to cool the basement or tent similar to above. Would increase CO2 in other areas of home. Don't know how big of an impact this would have overall. Don't know how badly this would impact cold air returns around the house. Need to check for CO backdraft from water heater chimney (have a CO meter and basement is open/unfinished so this shouldn't be an issue).
  1. Add an hrv or erv system to my basement
Pros: ?
Cons: Don't know enough about HRV/ERV to know if this is the right approach. Cost...
Unknowns: Why the hell does it take so long for CO2 levels to drop when my exhaust fan is running. It is a 6" fan that can move 800 CFM. The tent is 1000 CF. Even when I have the tent door open and airflow is not restricted, it takes a long time to lower the CO2 levels to 900 PPM.
I understand I am cycling basement air as well, but at 800 cfm I should have done a full air exchange in under 10m, let alone just lowering values to an acceptable range.
When most people aren't home, sometimes the CO2 stabilizes, and the exhaust fan will stay off for around an hour before being triggered from mushroom CO2 generation, but when everyone e is home (6 people, 6 dogs, 1 person and 1 dog as mentioned above in the basement) the exhaust runs nonstop, which makes my humidity and temp cycle like a sine wave.
Any thoughts on the correct approach to hit my targets in this controlled environment?
submitted by Fungus_Am0ngus to hvacadvice [link] [comments]

2023.06.07 02:20 HiddenLittleKitten Can a beneficiary contest a will's trust or the trustee?

I'm 32 with a physical disability with no learning disabilities and zero bad behaviours that would cause any concern for handling funds...
My Dad passed away and created a trust fund that has my uncle (his older brother) as the executor of the will and trustee to distribute the estate funds for my expenses, he's already retired so the plan is to eventually pass the role of trustee onto his step son I've never met instead ever passing any control over to me...
My uncle doesn't want any of the assets transferred into my name and instead wants to continue to keep me on ODSP (disability) low income support on a room and board account, so that he can pay some of the utility bills with the trust funds and thinks disability will cover all of my expenses, but my expenses are much more than what disability provides (less than 1k a month) and my Dad was financially helping me using the family gift allowance while I've been on ODSP that my Dad and I agreed for me to only be on temporarily and we were going to end the program this year, but he ended up passing away before that happened... I'm still currently on ODSP and trying to find remote work online because of the financial limbo I'm now in during the probate.
My Dad's investment portfolio has a yearly income of around 60k and there is an 800k value in his assets...
Though one problem is my Dad ended his TFSA so I was told there would be a 50% tax from the government, and that it might be possible for me to open an RDSP account to attempt to protect some of the money that's being lost?
Does that 50% tax only affect his savings or is it reoccurring for everything that my Dad had like if his investment portfolio creates 60k a year would it be taxed every time down to 30k?
There's also a mould issue in my Dad's home from a water heater leak, and I'm currently living in the home.
My uncle is wanting me to drastically downsize everything I own, sell the property at a massive loss as just a lot sale, and move into a small condo with higher fees much further away from any of my medical assistance and stores for the basics giving me much higher transit fees too...
My cousin that's a realtor said investing in repairing the immediate mould damage downstairs ASAP to make the house safe + slowly renovating for 100k over time while living in it would raise the house value to over a million and to not sell...
The will is currently still in probate and I'm not sure if emergency funds can be withdrawn from my Dad's money to professionally treat the mould?
I can't get help from house insurance because I found out my Dad renovated the bathroom downstairs not to building code and also did not update the insurance policy to include the 2nd bathroom where the leak happened...
Can my uncle as the executor and the estate trustee sell my Dad's house that I'm currently living in without my permission as beneficiary and force me to move? The house was only in my Dad's name and never in my name
Is it possible to dissolve the trust fund so I have everything just transferred to me? I'm the only beneficiary of the will
submitted by HiddenLittleKitten to legaladvicecanada [link] [comments]

2023.06.06 19:35 mythicls Is my dad an emotionally abusive narcissist?

submitted by mythicls to raisedbynarcissists [link] [comments]

2023.06.06 18:38 AvailableProgram667 23' model x LR is in the shop, got a loaner 17' model s 75. I like driving/using the loaner better

we have a 2023 model x and due to numerous quality control issues including the front doors not quite opening right, we got a 2017 model s 75 loaner vehicle.
I have a chevy volt, it has 256k miles, and nothing major has gone wrong so far. but it's literally worth $1500 less if it's broken than when it's running, so it just makes financial sense to run it into the ground and pocket that $1500 instead of trying to sell it for $3000 right now with everything I already did to it (not that much, but still cost too much for the value it added). I also don't even have the money for a new car right now anyway. smart financial decisions people, make them.
but lemme get to the controversial opinion of the old vs new model s. I think it looks better (compared to the model x), drives better (of course its a sedan vs an suv), I like the controls on the wheel that I don't have to touch the screen to change the functions of. the horn, turn signals, everything is where they should be and can be used efficiently (even the hidden away cruise control stalk can be easily used without look at it once you know how it works. thats the genious of stalks instead of buttons). also, the ride of the 2017 car is way, way better. specifically when going over our driveway. I really hope the fluidity of the current cars touch screen doesnt deteriorate like the old cars though. Because if it doe , I can see shifting on the the low repsonsive screen being really annoying and possibly even dangerous. maybe this wont hapeen to the new cars, but if it does, i hope it doesn't ruin the experience for a 2023 model s/x in 7 years with heavier software + age, but I digress.
I think the automatic closing feature is cool. but from a practical standpoint, but there are too many times where they are more of a pain than anything, I would seriously just rather do it myself every time, it takes literally no effort. energy usage in the gauge cluster is like a tachometer and I love it. the only real problem I might have with this generation tesla, is the screen responsiveness and for some reason, with this car, the screen color ratio is just really muted and bland. if the new and old screens were cookies, this one would be plain dough and the new one would be an m&m cookie with funfetti dough
I mean there are other small things like the fact that it's a bigger car so it might not be as fun around corners as a model 3, but its rwd and you can actually break traction in a straight line! on a 75! and I recorded a 0-60 of just over 4 seconds, it is absolutely fast enough.. even if by Tesla standards it's on the slower end, 4.2 is 4.2 and that is fast. and im coming from a car that does it in 9-10 lmao but it still ties the model 3 long range to 60, with a single motor instead of a dual motor, so you can do stupid stuff with it :). a p85/85+ would be even better with longer range, but I would rather have the updated seats, face lift, and headlights instead. plus that speed is only really gained in 0-30, so it would have the illusion of it having less top end because of the more violent bottom end.
Anyway, that's my take on it from having driven a 2023 x long range and then driving a 2017 s 75 for a few days. I'm more of a function-over-form guy when it comes to interiors. the style you'll get used to, but if something is annoying to use, it will always be worse than if it was just designed will the efficiency of use in mine. which is why I hate the yoke + no stalks, and which is why a new model s/x even if it was in my price range, would simply not be an option at all. am I alone in this way of thinking or are there others that would rather stick to their pre refresh model s/x because of these interior design changes. its cool dont get me wrong, but the usability of the controls at least for me, was significantly diminished, even having driven the new care more than the old one, some things are just better left unchanged.
submitted by AvailableProgram667 to TeslaLounge [link] [comments]

2023.06.06 14:42 doctorgecko Respect Yukari Yakumo (Touhou)

"Would you like to have a near-death experience? By crossing the boundary between life and death."

Yukari Yakumo

Yukari Yakumo is a legendary youkai with the ability to manipulate boundaries. She is one of the sages who created Gensokyo in the first place, and a good contender for its most powerful resident. Despite this she is also exceptionally lazy, spending most of her time sleeping and foisting most of the problems off on Reimu or Ran. Still, her incredible intelligence and completely inhuman nature means one can never tell quite what she's thinking, and making her angry is a very bad idea.


  • Source Index
  • Perfect Memento in Strict Sense and Symposium of Post Mysticism is an in universe book written by Hidea no Akyuu. She has a tendency to exaggerate and speculate, so her claims should be taken with a grain of salt.
  • Yukari herself is noted to lie quite a lot, so her own claims should also be taken with a grain of salt.
  • In 15.5 Yukari makes use of the urban legend Teke Teke, but her attacks while using this urban legend are fairly in line with her normal capabilities. As it's unclear what effect the Urban legend is having, these feats will be included in this section but marked with Occult
  • Yukari scales to a large number of characters, so here is every Touhou respect thread for the games

Defining Some Terms

Spell Card System: The Spell Card Rules were put in place by Reimu Hakurei in order to make duels between everyone fair, formalized, and safe. It is also the method nearly all Touhou characters will use in-character. Spell card battles have very clearly defined rules and attacks that are agreed upon before a duel with the purpose being that the most beautiful attacks win. In general Spell Cards are characters going easy on the foe, with ZUN outright stating they're not something the characters would ever use if they were serious.
Danmaku: Danmaku are the "bullets" fired in a bullet hell, take many different forms, and are able to be fired by most Gensokyo citizens. They're an essential part of duels in Gensokyo, being used to control an opponent's movement and overwhelm them. They can either be fired in intricate patterns, or just fired rapidly from a single point.
Youkai: Supernatural beings typically born from humanity's fear of the unknown, and the primary residents of Gensokyo. Youkai can be highly varied, but tend to be highly resistant to physical attacks while far more weak to spiritual attacks, such as names and traditions.
Gensokyo: Genoskyo is the region Touhou takes place in, and is a small landlocked region of Japan. It is fully enclosed by the Great Hakurei Barrier (more information bellow). The clearest picture of it shows it containing a few mountains, with it also being noted Gensokyo is small enough to see almost all of it from the Hakurei shrine
  • The Sages of Genoskyo (of which Yukari is a member) are the beings responsible for the creation and maintenance of Gensokyo
Urban Legend Incident: Due to the occult balls various Urban Legends begin to manifest in Gensokyo, and some characters are capable of controlling an urban legend in battle that matches their tempermant. It's worth noting that the effects are present even after the occult balls are removed from Gensokyo though Reisen notes it will soon settle down.

Boundary Manipulation

General Description: Summarized, Yukari's power allows her to manipulate the boundary between any two things.This can apply both to physical boundaries (such as between Gensokyo and the outside world), or even the boundary of concepts (such as human and youkai or night and day).
Direct Combat Usage
Gaps and Warping
Great Hakurei Barrier
Gensokyo's Boundary of Reality and Illusion

Other Abilities

Note that a number of feats here potentially involve boundary manipulation, but it's less explicit
Energy Projection
Shikigami: Shikigami are spirits that have been turned into tools via a patter, that have software installed to control them
submitted by doctorgecko to respectthreads [link] [comments]

2023.06.06 14:07 Jackviator The Spacer’s Guide to Caring For Your Pet Human (Part 20)

Hello, spacers!
On this episode, the group takes a stab at historical reenactments, the author takes some… “subtle” comedic jabs at certain contemporary events, and we find out where they’ve been hoarding the post-apocalyptic Twinkies.™
As always, I hope you enjoy. :)
As the group exited the Air Force base and began heading towards their destination, Kate looked at the surroundings as they walked. The area looked relatively untouched by the chaos of the past few weeks. The only evidence of it was an enormous pillar of smoke in the distance.
As Jack noticed Kate and a few others in the group staring at it, he nodded in understanding.
“That’s downtown Saint Paul, or at least the remains of it. From what we’ve been able to gather, the nuke we couldn’t stop in time exploded almost directly above the Capitol building. We only managed to put out the last of the fires in what little remains of downtown earlier today.”
“…How many people-“
Anticipating the question, Jack cut her off.
“We don’t know. …We may never know. We can only speculate.”
Kate’s face fell.
“Yeah, I figured that’d be the answer…”
Kate remained morosely silent as they approached the fort. Jack turned to address the crowd.
“Welcome to historic Fort Snelling. …Well, historic to us humans, anyway. Having a fort two centuries old is probably chump change to all of you from a time perspective, eh?”
Kate’s brow furrowed in confusion as she looked up at the stone walls of the fort, its stone tower chock-full of early-1800’s firearm loopholes meant for muskets.
“Wait, what?! …When they said we were going to “Fort Snelling,” I figured it’d be an active military base. Why’re we using a historic site…?”
Jack chuckled.
“It wasn’t actually the military’s decision to do that. A couple days after the bombs fell, a group of survivors moved into the fort. When questioned, I believe the leader of the initial group was quoted as saying “EMPs can’t knock out a big damn wall.” She was right; the stone walls of the fort are a great deterrent to looters and other kinds of people looking for trouble, and it’s easily defensible. Given that we obviously had way bigger things to worry about at the time, we just let them be.
Then, as more and more people showed up to our Air Force base looking for help, we decided the fort would make a good site for a refugee camp. The original group didn’t object; they actually welcomed the security having others around brought, especially once we started the organized armed patrols a few days ago.”
Y’ggdrasog piped up from beside Kate, a bit of indignation in his tone.
<“That’s all well and good, but what about respecting its historic significance? …Preserving the past, and all that?”>
“Relax. The only truly historic things here are a few of the buildings. The vast majority of what was on display inside said buildings- antique-looking tin cups, butter churns, muskets, that sort of thing- were just modern-made replicas, to give visitors an idea of what the fort used to look like back when it was still in use.
…We’ve actually thrown the vast majority of that junk into those “assimilator” thingies you Collective types brought along with you. It was either that, or burn them to keep warm. …Way I figure it, we can always just make more fake “historic” tchotchkes when we’re not fighting for the survival of our species, eh?”
Y’ggdrasog crossed his arms, and while he was clearly still unhappy about it, relented.
<“…Alright, fair enough...”>
As the group finally passed through the fort’s front gate, Kate could see a veritable sea of tents in the center of the area. They had passed plenty of tents on the way there in parking lots, boulevards and so on, but not nearly to this level of density.
Kate marveled at the sight, leaning toward Y’ggdrasog to murmur.
“People must have fought to get placed in here until there was literally no room left, and the tents were packed in like sardines.”
Y’ggdrasog gave her a quizzical look.
<“…What’s a “sardine?””>
“It's just a- …nevermind, it’s not important…”
Migtryl began to speak as the rest of the group filed through the gate.
<“Here and a few spots outside the fort are where you’ll be working for the most part. We reserved several tents for you to use both in and outside the fort, customized with your biologies in mind. I’ll start by giving you all a tour of the premises, so you can familiarize yourself with the different areas you might be needed.
…Starting off, over there you’ll see the impromptu medical center we’ve constructed. If you have any prior medical experience in your work history, you will be placed there. Next, we’ll be moving to…”>
Migtryl began walking off, talking and occasionally pointing with a wing or leg as they went and the group trailed behind them. As Kate tried her best to keep pace with Y’ggdrasog’s long strides, she could see that the crowds of humans inside the fort were parting like a sea around them, just like they behaved at the runway. Many looked at them with fear in their eyes, others with disgusted sneers.
Kate’s shoulders slumped as she finally realized:
Almost no one trusts them yet.
She was so lost in thought over the implications of this that she bumped into Y’ggdrasog, who had abruptly stopped walking. She glanced up at him to see him staring toward a group of humans near the edge of the medical center. His glow was crimson, his eyes haunted. She followed his gaze to see-
Her eyes widened.
Oh no…
The man he was staring at lay on a cot under an improvised tarp-tent. They were being tended to by several medical personnel (both human and alien) that were changing the bandages covering their body, and little wonder; they were absolutely covered in burns.
Before Kate could think of what to do to help her friend, she saw J’Ffrane almost literally materialize between Y’ggdrasog and the bandaged burn victim. Their voice was warm and soothing as they spoke.
<“Feel this moment, accept it, then let it pass. Remember? …Don’t let yourself drown in it.”>
It was like Y’ggdrasog was awakened from a dream as he blinked a few times and glanced at J’Ffrane.
<“Y-yes, I- …I remember...”>
He closed his eyes and took a deep breath, slowly letting it out in a shaky exhale as he turned to Kate, opening his eyes once more to meet her concerned gaze.
<“Come on, let’s not fall too far behind.”>
“…Are you alright?”
Y’ggdrasog gave her a weak smile, though the crimson of his stressful glow remained.
<“Of course I’m not. …But that’s not going to stop me from helping your people.”>
He took one last glance at the burn victim before turning and setting off once more towards the tour group.
J’Ffrane gave an approving nod as he walked away, leaning towards Kate and whispering.
<“He’s come so far... Half a cycle ago, he likely would have been nearly catatonic for the rest of the day.”>
Despite the encouraging words, Kate’s shoulders fell as she started walking after Y’ggdrasog.
“I should have thought of this... There have to be thousands- no, tens of thousands, maybe even six figures worth of burn victims from the bombs, in these two cities alone!”
<“And we will be with him to hold out a limb to grasp when he needs it. Just as he and I will be there for you, and you two for I, should the need arise.”>
Kate looked up at J’Ffrane, surprised.
“How would we help you?”
J’Ffrane smiled down at her.
<“You already have. Every person who asks for my assistance helps me immensely just by doing so. It helps me remember that I have a place in the world, and that place is giving the help they so desperately need. …Now then, let’s catch back up to the crowd and find out how we can best do that here, hm?”>
And with that, J’Ffrane’s dissipated as they flew forward towards Y’ggdrasog and the rest of the group trailing along behind Migtryl.
“Hey, wait up!”
Despite the brief interruption, Kate hadn’t missed much by the time she caught back up, and she was soon learning more and more of the facilities and service centers the Collective had constructed around the fort.
While the local military stationed in the fort were (rather fittingly) occupying the fort’s centuries-old barracks, they were actually the main supplier of the vast majority of the tents around the compound.
“More tents are being constructed every day for use in the surrounding area,” said Jack. “We ran our own supply of military-grade tents dry a few days ago, but we’ve been able to scavenge more from places like camping supply stores, alongside manufacturing our own from tarps and the like. Not exactly comfortable to live in, but we have to take what we can get.”
Kate put her good hand up to ask a question, shivering a bit as she did so in the crisp, late-autumn air.
“How well do they retain heat in all this cold?”
“A very good question. Normally it would be quite the problem, doubly so given just how damned cold Minnesota can get in fall weather alone. Luckily, however, the Collective came up with a solution. …Migtryl?”
<“We used a few of the fabricators we have at our disposal to create personal solar-powered heating units to heat each tent. …It’s a bit inefficient given the cloud cover, but on even the cloudiest of days they’re able to achieve over 150% of the solar exposure needed to get a full, week-long charge in a matter of hours.”>
Jack chimed in with a smile.
“It certainly beats the bonfires we filled with whatever we could lay our hands on to burn before you all got here, that’s for sure!”
From there, they moved on to the camp’s utilities.
As the water purification plants of the area had been rendered mostly inoperable by the EMPs and cyberwarfare attacks, the Collective had repurposed a few industrial sump pumps to direct water from the Mississippi River into an assimilator system. The assimilator broke it down and removed all the pollutants in the river water until all that remained was potable water, and distributed to locals to drink-
<“…or at least, to those who don’t refuse to drink it, that is.”> Migtryl said.
An alien of a species Kate didn’t recognize (one that almost resembled a snake if not for their arms and upright stature, who was strapped to a mechanical walker to get around the terrain) piped up, beating her to the punch.
<“Why wouldn’t they drink it?”>
Migtryl paused, glancing at Jack and weighing their words carefully before speaking.
<“…A small, but nonetheless very vocal portion of the local population seem to be under the mistaken impression we’re putting chemicals, nanites and so on in the water to do things such as influence their actions, up to and including controlling their sexuality, for some reason. …Anyway, such people often choose to simply boil and drink water taken directly from the river itself, instead of taking the purified water rations we offer.”>
In contrast to the shocked and horrified reactions of the aliens around her, Kate merely sighed and rolled her eyes.
Yeah, that sounds about right…
Another alien, this time a kentzaré, timidly raised one of their manipulation tendrils.
<“...Have many people gotten sick from doing that?”>
<“Unfortunately, yes. Even boiling the water sometimes wasn’t enough to prevent many such individuals from developing symptoms of several waterborne-based diseases, and that’s not even going into the possible long-term effects of the various pollutants in the water.
We also have individuals here and there who even refuse the fallout-proof masks we offer. …Something about “not using them before, not using them now” and “not living in fear”…?”>
As Kate facepalmed hard enough to leave a handprint mark on her forehead for a minute or two, Migtryl shook his head in frustration.
<“…We must make an effort to always remember that the majority of these people are hurt, scared, and in all likelihood grieving the death of at least one loved one, friend, or what have you. Most do not trust us. We must simply be patient with them, help those willing to receive it, and not give those who are unwilling any further cause for suspicion or hostility. …Now, come along; we have much more to look at.”>
With that, they both turned and began walking towards a long but narrow stone building. As they reached it, Jack turned to the group.
“This is the commissary. It’s where we keep the supplies we distribute to the civilians. It may look small, but looks can be deceiving. …C’mon, let’s step inside. Just remember to dust yourself off first!”
Y’ggdrasog glanced at the door clearly made for human proportions and shook his head, sighing as he turned to Kate.
<“You two go on ahead. I have no desire to work out the kink in my back later from having to be hunched over inside.”>
Kate smiled in amusement as several other taller species of aliens nodded, muttered their agreement and so on.
“Well, sorry on behalf of humanity for us being so short. …Anyway, see you in a bit, Yiggy!”
He winced.
<“…Kate, please, not in front of others…”>
Kate’s smile only widened as she turned and followed J’Ffrane with the rest of the group as they entered the building.
As they descended a set of stairs, Kate was surprised to see that despite its outer appearances, the building went several stories underground. As she descended down the first flight of stairs, a feeling of unease began to eat away at her. Her hairs began to stand on end, goosebumps rising despite the heaters inside the building.
Jack continued his explanation as they continued descending.
“The ground where this building stands was where they initially quarried out a lot of the stone necessary for building the majority of the fort’s walls and buildings back in the 1800’s. When they finished, the line of thinking was “well, we’ve made a really big hole, may as well use it for something.” So they built this commissary to act as a mega-cellar of sorts; it could store enough food to last the initial inhabitants of the fort an entire year.”
As they descended to the final level, Kate looked out across a sizable collection of boxes of various shapes and sizes stacked upon pallets. As she gazed at them, an eerie feeling of familiarity and something being inexplicably, terribly wrong settled onto her, and she only barely heard Jack continuing to speak.
“Most of the supplies that don’t belong to anyone in particular are either stored here, or wherever we can stuff them in what little free space there is left in the other buildings of the fort. Groups go out every day to scavenge for more food, general supplies, raw materials to put into your “assimilators” to make things like our filtered masks-“
150 spare air filters-
<“-as the assimilators and fabricators can only do so much at one time, we scavenge as much food as possible due to most of their time being taken up purifying the polluted water-“>
75 spare half-year water filters-
“It’s important to keep track of everything else we store here, so a lot of the work is just tallying everything up. It’s tedious, but very important; we need to know what we have to give those with very specific dietary needs-“
500 cans of spinach, 300 cans of olives, 700 cans of baked beans-
“Members of our species still have occasional issues with allergies, diabetes, that sort of thing. I’m told we likely will continue to have those for at least a decade or so before you Collective folks can develop those “immunity implants” necessary to sort them out. …Assuming the average Joe is willing to work with them, when the most advanced tech they had before was-“
3 spare radios, 50 packs of AAA batteries-
Kate only just barely managed to drag herself back to the present as she felt J’Ffrane metallic hand gently tugging at her sleeve. She turned to see them wordlessly gazing at her, a concerned expression on their face. Only after their intervention did she notice she had begun to start breathing erratically as Migtryl kept talking.
<“…Beyond moving the supplies where they need to go, the job’s not very physical. For the most part, it’s just counting how much of any one item we have and writing down the results. We usually give the job to people who are injured or otherwise not at their best, but still want to contribute.”>
Migtryl glanced over at Kate, who unbeknownst to him was having a desperate internal struggle to try and keep herself calm.
<“You’d be a perfect fit here, heh!”>
Kate sunk into herself a bit at his words, and found herself wishing she could turn invisible as the group turned to stare at her. Her voice was barely audible as she felt obligated to murmur out a response.
“…I, uh- pant …d-don’t think that- pant …would be a good idea…”
Not again, not again… Just stay cool, don’t keep hyperventilating, just move on, just- stop it. Stop stop STOP oh god why can’t I just breathe normally?! Just k-keep cool, just-
She felt the touch of J’Ffrane’s metallic hand on her shoulder, bringing her back to herself.
<“Come on, Stardust; let’s take a walk.”>
Kate hesitantly nodded and let herself be led away from the group and up the stairs by J’Ffrane’s gentle leading hand, wiping her tears away as she went. Migtryl glanced at Jack, who was staring after the pair, his expression worried.
<“…Was it something I said?”>
submitted by Jackviator to HFY [link] [comments]

2023.06.06 13:41 gemini1776 2017 Chevy Silverado issues

Looking for assistance/advice, I have a 2017 chevy Silverado 1500 with the 5.3, currently have a kn air intake and borla exhaust, I recently had a bbk shorty headers installed and I’ve been having issues. Check engine light, traction control light both flashing, truck doesn’t shift well and smell of fuel. I plan on having it professionally tuned next week which should fix these issue but anything I can do in until then? Anything to be concerned? These issues started once I put the headers on
submitted by gemini1776 to Chevy [link] [comments]

2023.06.06 12:43 WackoKacko Thoughts on me using a rectifier instead of a power supply for this induction heater?

Thoughts on me using a rectifier instead of a power supply for this induction heater?
Hey guys. Bear with me.
So I've been looking at this 2.5kW induction heating module lately, hungrily (link, £80 on Amazon). It takes 12-48V DC input. It's a Royer oscillator.

You may find yourself thinking "damn shame it needs DC power, i'd melt all kinds of things with it if i didn't need to buy a huge power supply to go with it" (link, £600 on Farnell). Same here, friend.
So I started thinking I'll just power it with a rectifier instead, since induction heating doesn't need a stable DC supply, just something more or less DC to turn into >10kHz AC. Turns out I can order one no problem (link, £20 on Amazon).
Got excited at the prospect of a £100 spoon-melting device, but then I thought the components inside aren't rated for 400VDC.
This led me to find the circuit schematic for an open-source 3kW induction heater (link to site).

You guys reckon I can swap out the components for higher rated ones and add on the rectifier circuit get this thing to work with single phase mains? Royer oscillators are wack, and I know nothing about them, so I ask. ChatGPT told me I can go ahead and do it, so it must be ok, right? ... ;)
A big thank you in advance to any helpful wizards out there.
submitted by WackoKacko to AskElectronics [link] [comments]

2023.06.06 05:28 Rofflesaur 2008 GM 5.3L Vortec - Mysterious Coolant Disappearance

I have a customer with a 2008 Chevy Suburban 1500 5.3L. The truck has almost 400K miles (he'd like to see half a million). It's mainly used for long distance travel. I've had the truck in the shop 3 times for this issue already, and I'm out of ideas.
  1. Vehicle is losing approximately a gallon of coolant before the engine starts to run hot, at which point the customer notices and refills (maybe over 1000 miles?)
  2. The cooling system builds no pressure on it's own. I can let it run for a half hour or more and the pressure tester gauge sits at 0. If I manually pump it up to 13-15psi while running, it will hold it.
Diagnostics Performed:
  1. Coolant dye test: No external leaks found. Not even the rear heater core or common areas such as the water pump gaskets. I allowed the vehicle to idle for over a half hour and not even a drop on the floor.
  2. Combustion leak test (twice): negative both times
  3. Cooling system pressure test (several times, both hot and cold): Holds pressure and slowly leaks 1-2 psi over a couple hours. I can't even count that as a leak because it's so slow that it could easily be from the tool or the reservoir seal.
  4. Compression test: All cylinders well within factory specifications.
  5. Cylinder visual inspection: Checked all cylinders with borescope cold as well as hot. Cylinders were dry and had no coolant present or evidence of coolant leakage. Cylinder wall condition was surprisingly good.
  6. Leakdown test: Changed the spark plugs because I removed them for borescope/compression test and they were due. Cylinder #6 had a sussy plug, so I leakdown tested that cylinder only and it was perfect. Didn't test others because of time and no evidence that they needed to be.
  7. Visual check of oil and transmission fluid: No evidence of cross contamination. No sludge on oil cap.
  8. Visual check of exhaust: not really an accurate test, but nothing other than normal amounts of water vapor were present at the tailpipe. No coolant smell.
Before anyone immediately yells out "cracked head," this truck has the 799 casting heads. The head cracking issue was a problem with the older 706. That doesn't mean 799s can't crack too, it's just less likely as they didn't have a factory flaw.
I'm going to lose my sanity over this truck soon! Nothing makes sense anymore! If the coolant is not leaking externally, then it must be going SOMEWHERE. These things have dry intake manifolds too. Please help me! 😂
submitted by Rofflesaur to MechanicAdvice [link] [comments]

2023.06.06 03:17 CalicoKahlia86 WIBTA for not paying a repair man to fix our pool heater.

My (36m) in-laws are coming this weekend to celebrate my wife’s (36m) birthday, her moms birthday, and Father’s Day. We lump them all together and celebrate. Our pool heater has been a bit wonky lately. Sparing everyone the details a 25 dollar membrane is the fix. I purchased the membrane, but the pins were delicate on the board and I accidentally snapped them. I tried unsuccessfully to repair with soldering iron.
We need a new control board. I ordered the part on Amazon for $395. It was a third party seller and will be here as soon as Thursday or as late as next Tuesday. Company is coming Saturday. Wife wants to call a repair service so that it’s fixed by Saturday. I think there is no guarantee they have the part or the time to get it done by Saturday. More importantly, we can’t really afford this $395 part let alone a bill for likely 2-4x that much to pay someone to do it. She is worried that I already broke it once and that her family will be cold. Saturday, as of now, is supposed to be cloudy and 73. (Will we even want to swim?)
WIBTA if I didn’t call someone to service it? I am plenty capable of swapping a board. I’ve done so on our fridge, built plenty of computers, and have repaired other problems with the pool heater, and other devices over the years. But more importantly we scraping by and I am concerned she isn’t taking that seriously.
submitted by CalicoKahlia86 to AmItheAsshole [link] [comments]

2023.06.06 00:45 shoesfullofwater My landlords are in violation of landlord tenant law, but they're also my husband's employer and we are concerned about retaliation. Are there legal protections for employee housing? (WA)

Hello, I hope I format this all correctly and I'll try and make everything understandable as it's a bit of a confusing situation. I'm sorry that this is a bit long, I'm just trying to cover all the questions people may ask.
We (myself, husband, and 5 month old son) live on an island in Washington State. We're currently in employee housing provided by his work. We pay $825 per month for a 2 bedroom, 1 bath condo in town. The building of condos is quite old and rarely receives maintenance. For the 1.5 years my husband and I have been living together, it's been a battle to get things fixed.
Here is a short list of some of the larger problems:
I should also note that our home isn't like traditional employee housing (ex. group housing or one room apartments). It's just a line of about 8 condos (or maybe they're technically town houses) in town, not on any property associated with the business. The owner of the company is a very wealthy man who has a great love for his community. He bought the apartments in AK and had them shipped (don't ask me how cause I don't know) down to us in WA for employees to live in at a reduced rate. As I stated, we pay $825 a month (water included, everything else we cover) and the typical going rate for our area is $1,500 - $2,000 per month. It's not deducted from his paycheck, like other employee housing sometimes is, we pay by check every month. The only thing that makes this employee housing is the fact that the company owns the grocery store my husband works at and the building we live in. There's separate management for both, but they influence each other.
Now here is a list of sections of landlord tenant law I believe they are violating:
(1) Not more than twenty-four hours, where the defective condition deprives the tenant of hot or cold water, heat, or electricity, or is imminently hazardous to life;
(2) Not more than seventy-two hours, where the defective condition deprives the tenant of the use of a refrigerator, range and oven, or a major plumbing fixture supplied by the landlord; and
(3) Not more than ten days in all other cases. * There is also a section that requires the landlord to pay any bills we accumulate for repairs that they fail to make, which they refuse to do (ie. not paying for the stove repair in full)
I don't want to sound ungrateful. I know I am very lucky to have a roof over my head. But I also think my family deserves a home that isn't constantly in disrepair or that is possibly hazardous (mold, fire risk, structural issues, etc).
I should also note that we've been told in the past that we're the best tenants they have. We always pay rent on time and have never missed a month. We've also been told that we keep our home the cleanest out of all the other tenants and they always make it a point to mention that. So they seemed to like us before we started reminding them of all these repairs we needed. I also want to say that in the notices I've submitted, I've used very polite language and have never mentioned anything about legal action (ie, not threatening them).
These are serious and, in some cases, ongoing concerns we have. As of March of this year, I began keeping record of all of the verbal communication we had with our property management and would submit written requests for repairs when possible. These requests have largely gone ignored as it was reported that the written requests "annoyed" the head of property management. That confuses me though as I've moved around the country quite a bit and my parents have been tenants to almost a dozen different landlords over the years and they've always communicated with their landlords through some kind of writing.
Due to the nature of our living situation being provided by my husband's employer, we are concerned about retaliation against his job. I've done extensive research into landlord tenant law for WA state, but can't find much on protections with employee housing. Are there different laws protecting my husband's job with it being tied so closely to our housing?
Our lease is month to month, so we don't have to worry about breaking it if we find somewhere else to live. We've been actively looking, but being on an island limits our housing opportunities (we cannot afford to move) and we can't find anything else we can afford on our minimum wage incomes.
We cannot afford a lawyer (beyond an initial free consultation I know some offer), my income alone cannot support out family, and would have no where to live if we were to be evicted in retaliation.
submitted by shoesfullofwater to legaladvice [link] [comments]

2023.06.05 17:19 Grease_Kaiju Car is in limp mode after addressing misfire.

My car is an 2019 86 TRD with less than 35k miles. I have been the only owner and I have been on top of the maintenance since I bought my car. However 2 months ago what started as a misfire in cylinder 1 has evolved into a laundry list of error codes that have put my car in limp mode.
I swapped the plug on cylinder 1 and nothing changed. Code was popping for the 02 sensor as well so I changed that. I looked at the fuel injector and it was clogged to hell so I swapped out all of them and now if the problem doesn't persist it goes into limp mode or shuts down completely.
These are the codes this far and what I've done.
P0300 Random/multiple misfire P0301 Cyl 1 misfire (swapped port injector+plug) P0304 Cyl 4 misfire (wasn't an issue before but now it is swapped port injector as well/note: cylinders 2 and 3 aren't showing any issues even after swapping port injectors) P0031 02 heater control circuit low (swapped 02 sensor) P24B9 system EVAP leak detection pump pressure sensor circuit range/performance (no idea what that is or what it means) P0201 (cylinder 1) 1. injector circuit open/2. port injector circuit open (no idea what that means)
Now the car is in limp mode and I'm at a complete loss of what to do next. I'm especially frustrated as well considering the car has so few miles over 4 years of driving.
Any suggestions or help would be greatly appreciated.
submitted by Grease_Kaiju to ft86 [link] [comments]

2023.06.05 04:32 desertbuddy12 2003 LT Interior swapped back to 1999-02?!

2003 LT Interior swapped back to 1999-02?!
I recently bought a 2003 LT Silverado Duramax. 170K for 7k. It needed a few things but not bad(at least i didnt know) it has a new gmc bed with some dings and dents. I got a newsteering wheel from a 05 with steering wheel controls but it wouldnt fit because the splines, I was confused but ignored it. But then I sent the cluster off to get repaired and the guy informed me its a 2002 cluster which shouldnt even be possible to plug into the 2003 computers. He couldnt even fix it because it was so old. After further investigation somehow they swapped the whole dash and steering coloumn back to a 2002 chevy. Must have spent some serious coin. Any advice or should i just make it look pretty and sell it
submitted by desertbuddy12 to CateyeChevy [link] [comments]

2023.06.05 03:50 LGN_22 New user, bed mesh problem, printer.cfg file inserted for review

New user, bed mesh problem, printer.cfg file inserted for review
EDIT/UPDATE- I found a file written for the CR-10 and found I had miscopied the rotation for stepper Z. If you look below, it should be 16/8, but I had it as 16/40 when I added the revised data.
After doing that, I noticed the Z-axis was moving more quickly than before. I did have to reverse the direction pin, as on auto home it started climbing and wasn't stopping. All good after that, it auto homed all 3 OK.
The bed height map was much better, but still wrong, it shows as over 1mm of difference between, the two sides. I used a caliper and found it was like .2mm. Still more work to do here.
I found a file for the CR-10 Smart Pro that uses the Sprite Pro extruder and copied settings for it, modifying pin assignments to match my board. / edit
I'm rebuilding a refurb CR-10. It has a Manta E3EZ board w/CB1, Sprite Pro extruder with CR Touch, an AC bed heater, and a 1/4 aluminum bed with magnetic PEI sheet. I added dual Z motors, and a top mounted z-sync belt. The z-motors each use one of the two z-ports on the board, they work together and can't be independently controlled (this is possible using the E1 driver).
I got Klipper loaded via the instructions that came with the Manta board. All x-y-z movements seem OK now, I had some problems with z but I think I'm mostly past them.
When I first set this up, the probe was hitting the bed on the second z measure on homing. I set the z-hop higher and also added in a section I found on this board for the CR Touch. This allowed me to run a 4x4 bed height map.
I added bed spring positions and dialed them in close before I added the PEI mag base. I ran bed_springs_adjust (manual bed level) with a piece of paper and got the gap close. My z-offset seems way too high as well.
Here's the problem: The bed height map shows the bed is like 5mm low on the right side (picture attached). It's clearly not that low.
I'll paste my printer.cfg file here for reference.
# This file contains common pin mappings for the BIGTREETECH Manta E3EZ# To use this config, the firmware should be compiled for the# STM32G0B1 with a "8KiB bootloader" "8 MHz crystal"# and "USB (on PA11/PA12)" or "CAN bus (on PB12/PB13)".
# See docs/Config_Reference.md for a description of parameters.
[include mainsail.cfg]
[stepper_x]step_pin: PA14dir_pin: !PA10enable_pin: !PA13microsteps: 16rotation_distance: 40endstop_pin: ^PC4position_endstop: 0position_max: 300homing_speed: 50
[stepper_y]step_pin: PC8dir_pin: !PA15enable_pin: !PC14microsteps: 16rotation_distance: 40endstop_pin: ^PB0position_endstop: 0position_max: 300homing_speed: 50
#[stepper_z]#step_pin: PD2#dir_pin: PD4#enable_pin: !PD3#microsteps: 16#rotation_distance: 8#endstop_pin: probe:z_virtual_endstop#position_endstop: 0#position_max: 400
[stepper_z]step_pin: PD2dir_pin: !PD4enable_pin: !PD3microsteps: 16rotation_distance: 40endstop_pin: probe:z_virtual_endstopposition_max: 395position_min: -6homing_speed: 50homing_retract_dist: 10.0homing_retract_speed: 20second_homing_speed: 5
#Old bltouch settings#[bltouch]#sensor_pin: ^PA6#control_pin: PA7#x_offset: -36.5#y_offset: -40.0#samples: 2#speed: 2#z_offset: 0.0
#CRTouch Probe settings[bltouch]sensor_pin: ^PA6control_pin: PA7x_offset: -36.5y_offset: -40#z_offset: 0probe_with_touch_mode: Truepin_up_touch_mode_reports_triggered: Truestow_on_each_sample: False # Keep the probe extended between pointssamples: 2 # Probe each point at least twicesamples_tolerance: 0.0125 # If those measurements aren't this close thensamples_tolerance_retries: 5 # Re-probe this many times and use the average
[safe_z_home]home_xy_position: 155,155 # Change coordinates to the center of your print bedz_hop: 12 # Move up 10mmspeed: 50z_hop_speed: 5
[bed_screws]screw1: 25,32screw1_name: Front left screwscrew2: 25,272screw2_name: Rear left screwscrew3: 267,272screw3_name: Rear right screwscrew4: 267,32screw4_name: Front right screw
[bed_mesh]speed: 120horizontal_move_z: 25mesh_min: 10, 10mesh_max: 253.5, 250probe_count: 4,4algorithm: bicubicfade_start: 1fade_end: 10fade_target: 0
[extruder]step_pin: PD5dir_pin: !PD6enable_pin: !PB3microsteps: 16rotation_distance: 33.500nozzle_diameter: 0.400filament_diameter: 1.750heater_pin: PB11 #HE0sensor_type: EPCOS 100K B57560G104Fsensor_pin: PA4 #TH0control: pidpid_Kp: 21.527pid_Ki: 1.063pid_Kd: 108.982min_temp: 0max_temp: 300
#[filament_switch_sensor material_0]#switch_pin: PC5
#[extruder1]#step_pin: PB7#dir_pin: PB6#enable_pin: !PB4#heater_pin: PB10 # HE1#sensor_pin: PA5 # T1
#[filament_switch_sensor material_1]#switch_pin: PB1
[heater_bed]heater_pin: PB2 #HBsensor_type: EPCOS 100K B57560G104F #Generic 3950sensor_pin: PA3 #TBcontrol: watermarkmin_temp: 0max_temp: 130
[fan]pin: PA8
#[heater_fan fan1]#pin: PB15
#[heater_fan fan2]#pin: PB14
[mcu]serial: /dev/serial/by-id/usb-Klipper_stm32g0b1xx*******(intentionally blanked)
[printer]kinematics: cartesianmax_velocity: 300max_accel: 3000max_z_velocity: 5max_z_accel: 100
#########################################TMC2209 configuration########################################
[tmc2209 stepper_x]uart_pin: PB8#diag_pin: PC4run_current: 0.800stealthchop_threshold: 999999
[tmc2209 stepper_y]uart_pin: PC9#diag_pin: PB0run_current: 0.800stealthchop_threshold: 999999
[tmc2209 stepper_z]uart_pin: PD0#diag_pin: PC6run_current: 0.650stealthchop_threshold: 999999
[tmc2209 extruder]uart_pin: PD1run_current: 0.800stealthchop_threshold: 999999
#[tmc2209 extruder1]#uart_pin: PB5#run_current: 0.800#stealthchop_threshold: 999999
######################################### TMC2130 configuration########################################
#[tmc2130 stepper_x]#cs_pin: PB8#spi_software_miso_pin: PC11#spi_software_mosi_pin: PC12#spi_software_sclk_pin: PC10##diag1_pin: PF3#run_current: 0.800#stealthchop_threshold: 999999
#[tmc2130 stepper_y]#cs_pin: PC9#spi_software_miso_pin: PC11#spi_software_mosi_pin: PC12#spi_software_sclk_pin: PC10##diag1_pin: PF4#run_current: 0.800#stealthchop_threshold: 999999
#[tmc2130 stepper_z]#cs_pin: PD0#spi_software_miso_pin: PC11#spi_software_mosi_pin: PC12#spi_software_sclk_pin: PC10##diag1_pin: PF5#run_current: 0.650#stealthchop_threshold: 999999
#[tmc2130 extruder]#cs_pin: PD1#spi_software_miso_pin: PC11#spi_software_mosi_pin: PC12#spi_software_sclk_pin: PC10#run_current: 0.800#stealthchop_threshold: 999999
#[tmc2130 extruder1]#cs_pin: PB5#spi_software_miso_pin: PC11#spi_software_mosi_pin: PC12#spi_software_sclk_pin: PC10#run_current: 0.800#stealthchop_threshold: 999999
[board_pins]aliases:# EXP1 headerEXP1_1=PC1, EXP1_3=PC3, EXP1_5=PC0, EXP1_7=PA2, EXP1_9=,EXP1_2=PC2, EXP1_4=, EXP1_6=PA0, EXP1_8=PA1, EXP1_10=<5V>
#[output_pin PS_ON]#pin: PA9
#[output_pin pb9_pin]#pin: PB9#[neopixel my_neopixel]#pin: PC7
#[adxl345]#cs_pin: PC15#spi_software_miso_pin: PC11#spi_software_mosi_pin: PC12#spi_software_sclk_pin: PC10
#*# <---------------------- SAVE_CONFIG --------------------#*# DO NOT EDIT THIS BLOCK OR BELOW. The contents are auto-generated.#*##*# [bltouch]#*# z_offset = 11.937
submitted by LGN_22 to klippers [link] [comments]

2023.06.05 03:04 Sparkycivic BBQ thermometer "Expert Grill" BLE device

My wife bought this red and black "Expert Grill" brand bluetooth dual probe BBQ thermometer.
Online, people complain about the low range of the communication, but otherwise it seems to be a pretty decent little remote sensor. The one little caveat which I think might cause problems for the typical HA user, is that the device powers-down when there isn't a phone connected to it.
I'm not a programmer, and my preferred tinkering domain is more in the physical or electrical areas.
I'm wondering, is this device interesting or useful enough to warrant an integration to Home Assistant?
I followed some guides and obtained the BTSNOOP HCI logs of my phone connecting to, getting some readings, and disconnecting from the thermometer. I also looked inside the device and made notes of what's inside. Will that be enough data for someone to be able to create an integration using the stock firmware?
On the subject of firmware... I have noticed that the SOC of this device is "WLT8258" which seems to be a similar device to the Telink TLSR8258. I found that the PVVX online "Telink OTA Flasher" utility https://pvvx.github.io/ATC_MiThermometeTelinkOTA.html seems to connect to this device and doesn't generate any error which might offer a handy means of uploading a firmware "update" should one exist for it.
The only other chips I cold find inside was the LCD driver chip "TM1628A", and battery charge/power control IC "2SES-01NG-004984" This device uses a rechargeable lipo pack inside which appears to have it's own protection circuit on the pack. This device is recharged using a USB-C port on the top, which doesn't pass any data lines to the board, so no firmware update over USB.
If This could be integrated into HA, I would use it for monitoring my swimming pool solar heater performance, and possibly automating the heater to shut it down if there's not enough solar energy available, if the performance is negative(cooling the water), or if the pool is too hot. All of those situations have been affecting my pool now that the weather here on the prairies is warm enough to go outside and play. I already have HA control over my heating and filter pumps thanks to a pair of Sonoff Mini DIY WiFi remote switches, so the last piece of the puzzle is getting temperature feedback to close the loop.

submitted by Sparkycivic to homeassistant [link] [comments]