2016 toyota rav4 key fob battery

I have a 2015 Spark LT, and the plastic bit that holds the key has broken off. The key fob still works and I don't want to spend a mint getting a new one, so I bought a replacement shell to transfer the electronics to. It looks almost exactly like the original, except its missing the Chevy emblem.
The thing is, I can't for the life of me figure out how to pry open the old shell. I can pry off the battery door easily enough, but nothing beyond that. The new shell has a screw right where the Chevy emblem is on the old fob, and apparently a lot of car key fobs hide a screw under the emblem, but when I pry the Chevy emblem off it's just bare plastic underneath. The only videos I can find of the 2015 Spark only show how to replace the battery, not how to open the whole shell and transfer the actual electronics, and the post-2015 fobs seem to be built quite differently so those videos aren't helpful.
The nearest Chevy dealer is about 30 minutes out of town, so I'd really rather not schlep down there (and possibly only to have them try and sell me a whole new fob)! Any help would be much appreciated 🙏

Gonna try and explain this as well as possible. 2014 Buick Verano just randomly got an error when trying to start my car saying Service Theft Deterrent System and unable to start the car with that key fob. Key fob worked fine yesterday. Engine does not even attempt to start and key fob cannot unlock or lock doors (except manually). I tried replacing the battery but no help. Did a few reprogramming things to no avail but found an old key fob works perfectly fine. Is there anyway I can fix this myself? Thanks brothers

It may have been true 30 or 40 yeara ago, but not today. I drive a Chevy and my wife drives a 2016 Ford Escape. I drove my friends 2022 Toyota Rav4, which is comparable to the Escape in theory. The Rav4 is crap. I drove it on the interstate for about 4 hours and I was exhausted. It's unstable, trucks pushed it around like a toy. The road noise was horrible! The Ford escape, which has a similar form factor is vastly superior. It's quite and more stable. I felt like I had been in a wrestling match after driving a RAV4.

Can someone teach me how to lock my keys in my car? I know that sounds crazy but I want to park and go snorkeling and just take my little metal key with me and leave my electronic key fob locked safe in my car where it can't get wet and ruined. My car just honks at me and won't lock the keys in. That's probably helpful for not mistakenly doing it, but I want to do it on purpose. I know using the little metal key sets the alarm off, that's fine. Oh and it's a 2016 with remote start, if that matters.

Heya, Just got a 2016 outback a few months ago. It started chirping after I unlock it and open one of the doors does that mean my fob is dying?
Edit: changed fob battery that's not it. It wasn't doing it before. It makes the chirp when I unlock it but then when I open one of the doors it makes a little chirp.

Heya, Just got a 2016 outback a few months ago. It started chirping after I unlock it and open one of the doors does that mean my fob is dying?
Edit: changed fob battery that's not it. It wasn't doing it before. It makes the chirp when I unlock it but then when I open one of the doors it makes a little chirp.

I am posting my question here in the collapse subreddit but I am not sure I am in the right place. But hear me out. My question has to do with the rollout of the “Advanced Clean Cars II” rule that originated with the California Air Resources Board (CARB) and California generally. There are a number of other states that will follow the CARB rules. NY is among these states and is where I live. ACC II is well-intended and is supposed to provide a structure for transition away from fossil-fuel vehicles. But as I attempt to think through the implications, I have to wonder if the ACC II policy may end up collapsing the auto industry and auto sales in the US and it will cause it to happen “sooner than expected”. I know there are many on this sub that would welcome that outcome. But in a country that has been so dependent on cars it will be a big change.
In 2021 NY passed legislation that would transition new car sales to 100% EV in 2035. Governor Hochul signed it and then passed it off to the NY Department of Environmental Conservation (DEC) to come up with an implementation plan. DEC then announced adoption of the CARB ACC II rule in late 2022 as part of the NY EV mandate. ACC II calls for EV quotas to take effect gradually starting with the 2025 auto model year which would begin with a 25% EV sales quota. PHEVs could count towards the quota but could only satisfy up to 20% of the quota for each model year. Automakers face a penalty if they fail to meet the EV quota. By 2030 the quota is 70% EV new car sales.
I was thinking about this EV mandate in CA but also in NY, CT, MA, MD, NJ, and others in terms of the effect on existing dealerships in these states. Tesla doesn’t sell through a dealer network but all the other automakers do. Tesla will have no problem qualifying. But when I think about the typical Toyota dealership, I can see a big problem that will arrive with the 2025 model year. Stats from NY DMV show 5.7% of new car sales in 2022 were EVs. This includes PHEVs like RAV4 Prime, Jeep 4Xe, etc. Battery Electric Vehicles (BEV) were only 2%. I am not sure about 2023 but it’s likely to be only slightly more than 2022. But with the 2025 model year, Toyota would have to sell 20% BEVs of its new car sales in those ACC II states like NY. But at this point Toyota only has the bZ4X BEV right now in 2023 and less than 2000 have been sold so far this year in the US (source: Bard). They might have another model in 2025 but it would be completely new. They have the Mirai fuel cell car but there is zero hydrogen infrastructure in NY to fuel it. So Toyota would have to either pay a big fine per vehicle, or buy “credits” {presumably from Tesla) that buy them out of the quota.. Or they would have to somehow increase BEV availability and sales by a factor of 10x in less than 2 years! Google Bard says that one way they could comply is to limit the sale of ICE cars so that even low sales of BEVs would equal 20% of the total. This would mean very few Toyotas could be sold until the company could actually produce enough BEVs to meet the increasingly high EV quota. Maybe Toyota would have to increase sales far more than 10x?
By 2030 the EV quota will be 68%. I don’t see how these progressively stricter quotas are mathematically possible to meet. I can’t see how any Toyota dealership in the ACC II states can survive more than 3 years. Maybe they just stay in business on service and used cars? Or does it all fall down? Maybe we are all heading for e-bikes sooner than we thought?
I guess Toyota could write off these states but that would be hard. CA, NY, NJ, MA, MD, etc are a huge share of the US market. And what of the consumers? It’s not hard to believe there will be a shortage of new cars. What few cars that are available will be the expensive ones. So e-bikes it is!
I am hoping some redditors out there will have some insight into the auto industry that I lack. Or redditors who might have insight into how ACC II will work in California? Will this hasten in the end of the auto age? Maybe it’s already happening? Google Bard tells me that year over year auto registrations in CA and NY have declined for several years..

2022 Kia Rio-it’s a key start and has only one door with a key lock, but obviously has keyless entry. The key lock on the door is jammed, but keyless entry was working fine. Until it wasn’t. I assumed it was the car battery or alternator but the dealership says there is nothing wrong with the car?? They said they “jimmied” the lock to get the fob working again. Mind you I tried both my key fobs and ultimately had to have the car towed to the shop because I couldn’t even get in the car to try and start it. Now they’re telling me their technician was able to open the car with the fob and start it just by “finangelling” the cylinder?
Are the ACTUAL KEY lock cylinder on the door and the push button key fob related at all? They’re telling me this is the issue and that my car is fine. They said if the key lock cylinder is out of place it could make the fob unable to work. But how does that make sense?????

2022 Kia Rio-it’s a key start and has only one door with a key lock, but obviously has keyless entry. The key lock on the door is jammed, but keyless entry was working fine. Until it wasn’t. I assumed it was the car battery or alternator but the dealership says there is nothing wrong with the car?? They said they “jimmied” the lock to get the FOB working again. Mind you I tried both my keys and ultimately had to have the car towed to the shop because I couldn’t even get in to try and start it. Now they’re telling me their technician was able to open the car with the FOB and start it just by “finangelling” the cylinder?
Are the ACTUAL KEY lock cylinder and FOB related at all? They’re telling me this is the issue and that my car is fine. They said if the key lock cylinder is out of place it could make the FOB unable to work. But how does that make sense?????

I want to preface by saying I am not a car guy and at times a moron.
I have a 2005 Lexus es 330. My key fob has been falling apart this past week and the key fob battery (like the electrical internal part that has all the buttons and such) keeps falling out. Today at work it fell out when I wasn’t noticing (I teach elementary school) and it is now completely missing (I still have the keys and the actual frame of the fob, just not the internal part that makes the fob function. I gave up looking for it and went to just drive home planning to switch to my spare key/fob. Well, my car would not start. It turned over but wouldn’t actually start. I figured it was having some type of separate issue and like a dumbass I just tried to start it over and over again for 20 minutes. Eventually the battery just died. To cap things off, my hood also will not pop. After researching I am pretty sure it wasn’t starting because of some type of anti-theft system due to me losing the fob. I am now getting towed home. I have a few questions:
Is this lost key fob/anti-theft system hypothesis actually why the car isn’t starting?
Is my hood not popping some type of anti-theft system as well or is this just a coincidence?
I do have a spare key at home with a key fob, will using this disengage the anti-theft system?
If not, wtf do I do? The hood will not pop so I can’t jump it at home. I’d prefer not to take it to the dealer if the issue is simply my own stupidity. Thanks in advance!!

I had initially been getting a warning on my dashboard telling me that the key battery was low and needed replacing. This warning showed up regardless of which of my two keys I had in the car. I only ended up changing the batteries when I tried to unlock my car with both keys and neither would work. At this point I assumed the batteries had both died around the same time.
However, even after changing the batteries in both keys, they still did not work (I tried multiple batteries). So I used the emergency blade inside the fob to get into the car manually (which set the alarm off), placed the key fob into the "backup position", pressed the start button, but the car would not even start.
When I press a button on my key, it sometimes sets my car alarm off in the next 10 or so seconds and it stays on for about 30 seconds. Other times, nothing happens at all. But either way I can't get into my car without doing it manually.
I hope you can give me some ideas as to what could be causing this.

Is there any way to bypass the key fob on a kugoo g booster? I don’t have the fob for it- Before everyone thinks I stole it, I own multiple houses and a tenant moved out and left one of these scooters so I thought I’d try and get it running, has a good battery.

Changed the battery to my 2010 Nissan Maxima, everything's working great, except the key fob lock doesn't make the beep sound anymore.
I know the key fob has 2 sound settings: the beep, and the horn. If I change it to the horn, it sounds like a normal horn lock. But when I change it to the beep, there is no beep lock, just silence. The doors do lock though, which is great. But still, where's the beep?
This is only a key fob issue, and it happens with BOTH key fobs that I have for the car.
When I press and hold the lock button on the driver's side door handle, I DO hear the beep, which is perfect. I just can't hear it when I lock the car with the key fobs.
Please if you have any solutions to share, please do. I'd appreciate any morsel of information lol
Thank you for reading.

Heya, Just got a 2016 outback a few months ago. It started chirping after I unlock it and open one of the doors does that mean my fob is dying?
Edit: changed fob battery that's not it. It wasn't doing it before. It makes the chirp when I unlock it but then when I open one of the doors it makes a little chirp.

I drove over some rough roads in a construction zone and the vehicle died while going almost 70. Had to pull over on the highway and was able to crank it but no ignition. Almost like it was out of gas. Too loud to hear if the fuel pump was coming on so I killed the battery while waiting for the tow truck driver.
Drove my girlfriends car for almost a week before messing with it because I was scared I flooded it. Hooked it up to a battery tender all night and it started right up. After shutting it off though, my key fob didn’t work and one of the day time running lights on the headlight was on. The keyless entry fob would work if the key was in the ignition though. I tried going through the key fob programming but the lock button wasn’t working when the vehicle was parked which isn’t normal. I stopped messing with it for awhile hoping the light would just go off automatically but it killed the battery again.
I think it has something to do with the computer system (pcm, ecu, bcm, or ecm). There’s been a bunch of dash lights and warning messages on since I bought it but it’s driven and ran great other than this.
Any ideas? I’m going to be draining the battery now to fully reset the computer, then jump starting it and driving it 45 miles to see if that helps.
5.3 03 suburban LT 158k miles
Additional info:
Previous owner bypassed the normal ignition of the vehicle with a mechanical switch that you have to turn on and off when key is in on position. Safe to assume they were trying to fix a bad ignition switch cheaply no? Could a bad ignition switch cause all these problems and should I just fix that first?

Considering this purchase. I just need something to get around my small town and an occasional trip into town (30 miles). Buying a car just to save for a nicer truck and pay down some debt.
The wife and I have a reliable mini van for the family..
What should I look out for? Reliability for this year? Thanks.

Its 2016 Toyota RAV4 Hybrid. I suspect water pump? What else could be?